The best thing you can do it air down your tires to something like 15-20 psi. That will make them nice and wide/fat. In soft sand, you want to 'float' on top, not get bogged down deep that is how people get stuck.
You'll need a way to fill the tires back up to normal psi when you get back to...
Take the red eye flight and you could be in 'Amarillo by morning'
Seriously though...the part that caught my eye was 'daily driver'. I went non-Sas for this reason and I am happy with that choice. You can easily upgrade to 33" tires for about $1200 and the 4.46 gearing is perfect for that...
Nice job @dagarbronc those picture are very helpful. A couple of notes based on comments I see above. I worked with the company @wheelsfeels.com on this design, they used my Bronco to scan the interior and get the dimensions right.
- The model with the seats removed and a flat surface that...
The trick is using a Torx Plus 40 socket, not the one that came with the Bronco
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/oem-modular-bumper-bolts-removal.79738/post-2148879
Not sure exactly what this is, but somehow still would want it on my 2.3L
"Software upgraded to improve turbo performance (off-road optimized anti-lag tech)"
@Akwagon please do post a video replicating this if you can
My best guess is same as others have said above: some programming interference with the aftermarket ASS device
I would take it off and then reinstall and you might get lucky and the noise goes away. I have had it happen before where something was just not seated quite right, or maybe bolts not even torqued.
All the haters are gonna say 'black' !
Probably nothing that can capture the metallic dark blue of AMB. But I think colors like dark grey go well with it.
I am biased but my advice is go with Base and then add on only the things that really matter to you and don't pay $12k extra for things you really don't want. Things that are easy to upgrade on Base and don't cost that much:
- wheels and tires
- seat covers
- sound system
- steering wheel wrap
-...
Mostly repeating what was said above but I've got this down to a science now and completely drip free:
- Drain oil pan first and replace plug
- Move catch pan over to under the chute (or use two catch pans)
- Loosen oil filter a few turns from the wheel well but leave it on there so it can drip...
I have the corded one in your second picture. Works perfectly and I have never had any problems with it. It is one of the connectors recommended by the FORScan people: https://forscan.org/download.html