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Installed the molle today, here are my install notes and impressions - Well packaged - Very light weight - Install was fairly easy (after i made used some muscle and made some modifications, see below) - Feels sturdy (even with my mods) Here was the package I have the GOAT Fab support and...

am I on YouTube? I'm confused

perhaps I missed that, where did you see that?

at least with my keys there is one position that is close to seating, and as you can imagine with techs, they are used to keys having only one correct position, so if it almost seats they might think that's it and continue

I think it's fine to use em, but they keys needs to be inserted correctly, which I don't think a shop did and damaged it

I have used it on these, I'm assuming shops use air tools tho

I have these as well, I do like them, but I have some issues with them 1. The key might look like it is attached but needs another slight rotation to seat properly, this is probably due to the unique keys made, and some might not have the issue. 2. If you have a tech use your key, there is a...

The one pictured is their factory height knob (note, the way it locks is via blue lock-tight, which they supply, and requires a couple hours to cure)...

it's actually the little tab on the hinges that makes it difficult, without them it wouldn't be an issue at all

no cloth just need to twist the bottom of the plastic trim away from the tailgate until it comes loose, it definitely took me longer the first time but after replacing the light in 30 degree weather I'm pretty confident it won't break. Take your time with it, but after enough twist you'll see...

I hear ya, I've changed them so many times now, that I can do it under 20 mins. p.s. (I also have the TOR tailgate)

I'm on my 3rd set of complete assemblies and 3rd set of resistors, none of which solves the problem. I was also told that a "new" assembly would fix the issue at one point. I'd be weary of the set you are getting will fix the issue as last I was told they needed to redesign the entire thing...

I spy 3 heritage broncos and 1 Toyota booo

I also installed this recently and noticed the same as OP, a hard kick to the tires will make it chirp but a normal pull of the handle when locked doesn't chirp

not sure if it's related but recently updated my tire size to fix the speedometer being 2mph faster than actual and noticed my mpg plummet from ~19 to ~17 🤔

so the good news is that they are keeping an open dialogue with me and have been helpful dealing with this, the bad news is that it's believed that new resistors might not fix the issue entirely, I got this message from them and then the potentially really bad news I'll keep y'all posted ofc

I have IAG skids with this diff drop and their sway bar relocation brackets and added spacers between frame and skid to the engine skid (which includes the lower front skid) and transmission skid, this clears the front diff and e-sway bar.

Im on my third set of tail lights and have tried 3 sets of resistors. Ironically, today (for about 30 minute drive to kids school) and at 10 degrees the turn-signal worked fine, voltage was stable at around 14.4 the whole time. It seems to happen when voltage goes from high to low 13 - 15 ish...

So yea, the new resistors do not fix the issue, while initially they worked, after driving around for about an hour, they hyper-flashed from time to time. Perhaps some progress was made as before the turn-signal would always hyper-flash, now its less frequent therefore hard to pinpoint what...

got the new resistors today, they came unbranded, but looks the same. Just finished up putting them on (takes me about 20 minutes to replace the lights now-a-days), Initial test was working just fine, going to leave the bronco outside for a bit since its around 20 degrees here, and will update...