I believe I have finally killed the rattle. As I mentioned previously, installing Kilmat inside the enclosure did nothing. However, installing Kilmat on the metal panels, as mentioned in my other post has eliminated the rattle. I've tested it with a fairly wide genre of music and have not...
Didn't help at all. See this post.
Last night I added Kilmat to the metal behind the enclosure and rubber washers between the enclosure and the mounting points. Unfortunately, by the time I was done, it was too late to test at a high volume. Will give it a try on the way home this evening...
I believe the Goose Gear table is the only one that doesn't require support cables. They use strong hinges that don't require the cables. This was the determining factor for me.
Added a sheet of Kilmat to the interior of the enclosure and it still rattles like crazy! 😭
Next step will be removing the enclosure and adding Kilmat behind it. I haven't had the rear panels in my rig for a while, so no place to jam paper towels like others have.
Any estimate on when you'll get a 2-door? I have the factory washout flooring and use AAL's rear platform, so not in a rush, but this seems like a worthy upgrade.
Finally got around to installing mine last night. Much more linear action than the factory spring which makes engagement smoother.
Pro tip...use VISE-GRIP style needle nose pliers when reinstalling the E-clip otherwise it could slip and end up behind the kick panel. Don't ask me how I know.
Excellent, thank you!
I'm leaning towards installing both RC bushings, but plan to inspect each side of the rack this weekend and then make a decision.
If, at some point, I blow up the standard rack, I'll probably just install the HOSS 3.0 version.
I believe, in the other thread, someone joked about not believing the BB guy because he wants to sell an expensive piece of aluminum, however the question still remains.
Should we install both of the RC bushings or only the driver's side? RC's engineering is solid on some things, but not on...