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You just run speaker wire from the Mobridge amp to their supplied T harness for the headunit in the dash…. Basically use the same factory wiring and connect to 2 of the channels on the Mobridge

I have a different amp , but run the power from the battery as well. With 4 gauge wiring you should be able to run it along the drivers side underneath the door trim and carpet (just as you show in your pics). Not sure if you have thicker than 4 gauge, but doubt you need 2 or 0 gauge for that...

Thanks for the offer but I actually started with the file Fraser supplied as I’m closer to their set up used to test… The starting file he gave is actually quite good for my setup ( components up front, 6.5 in rear , 12” sub on tailgate) but I’m curious what would get tweaked if I did a full...

Glad you got your system tuned!! I gotta get Fraser to help me do that as well! I bought the mic and downloaded the software. I'd invest an hour just to make sure I got everything dialed in correctly!

Do you mean you have 2 way (i.e. - coaxial where both the mid and tweeter are in the dash? ) or 2 way components meaning the mid is in the dash and the seperate tweeter is in the a pillar or somewhere else? I'm refering the the later. And I've also been thinking about using the center...

Do you have 2 way components up in the front already? If not, you might consider that and put tweeters in the a pillar - gives a much more full sound (assume thats what you are after with adding more speakers)...but you might consider the components up front....

I have the stinger sub box powered by the Mobridge and it is really, really good bass. Fraser helped me with the config on the tune so I can attest to the amp having plenty of power to get a 12" sub booming. With the whole area in the rear cleared out of the factory sub box, I use an MTI...

That's definitely the problem - maybe you can MacGuyver a way to get the same angle - or perhaps glue the OEM mount to the inside of the bumper and then mount the sensor using the factory mounts. Or maybe call the maker of the bumper as I'm sure they said it would all fit and work properly!!!!

It might be the angle of the sensors and that they are pointed too much towards the ground or too straight ahead (maybe to upright if its going off with cars next to you) . I had this problem when swapping mine out and had to get different "holders" to have the sensors at the right angle (OEM...

Having gone down the audio rabbit hole and incrementally upgrading, if you go right to something that’s 10/12 with a dedicated amp then you’ll save the time of doing it twice! Ha!! I first upgraded the sub in the stock location ( same logic of the easiest thing to try), then realized the trim...

I have a set of 5 SAS wheels that were taken off a 21 Wildtrak ( traded rings with another member on forum) at about 7k miles. Ready to ship in my replacement wheel boxes but with all the protective cardboard etc. No scratches and comes with just the center caps. $500 plus shipping or if...

Hi - I've gone through many different version of how I wanted to upgrade my B&O stereo. I'm finally satisfied with what I have and now selling the "extra" parts that I bought during the journey! Its not quite a full upgrade (still need kick panel and subwoofer) - but its pretty darn close...

I had a Kicker Key 500.1 prior to the Mobridge (amp/dsp) and I just took it out as the 2 channels to run the sub on the mobridge is powerful enough to drive my 12" stinger tailgate sub and just as configurable with crossover point and gain. I assume when you installed the key amp to the...

If anyone has put in a Kick Key for a sub, to Fraser's point, you are 90% of the way there for a full mobridge install. Basically, you need a power wire from the battery to the rear passenger side, you unplug the 3 connections to the OEM B&O amp, and those plug into the Mobridge harness (in...

I took it out of the mix and run all channels off the mobridge. I’ll have that amp, a large Acoustic research amp, a PAC a2b converter, and about 3 sets of 4” coax focal, hertz, JL audio speakers as well. But the Mobridge is all you need if you go down that route!

I just went thru this same journey and with the help of Fraser ended with my final phase which was to simply add in the mobridge a2b/amp/dsp. Its simply the easiest way to not have to compromise in any aspect - whether that be driving a 12" tailgate sub, to components up front, to adding 6.5...

Totally agree with the caveat that "replace stock speakers" means you are upgrading with one step up speakers (4 inch co-axial vs components, more sensitive etc). If you keep the stock B&O amp, it is not worth going high end on speakers unless you replace the amp to get a fuller range of sound...

Having gone thru the phases of "incremental" upgrading there are a couple points of clarification that will help you make your decision on how far to go.... This is based on a 2021 Wildtrak B&O starting point.... 1) The B&O stock amp only runs the front kick panel speakers, front dash, and the...

Thanks to Fraser at Mobridge for helping over email/phone in getting my Mobridge AMP working properly! I originally had a Kicker Key 500.1 running a stinger tailgate sub with upgraded speakers all around but still using the factory B&O amp. With the Mobridge I could remove both the factory...

Hi - I have a 21 Wildtrak and today I noticed that the passenger side tail light is always bright. Meaning when you step on the brake, the passenger tail light doesn't do anything and the driver side gets brighter and the 3rd brake light goes on. I have a diode dynamics chase lights that uses...