Agree'd. Replacing the oil drain plug with a valved plug makes for a simple and mess free oil change. For the 2.7, don't even need an oil catch pan. just slide a 2.5 gallon carboy under the vehicle and drop the drain hose into that. Once full, bring carboy with the waste oil in for disposal...
Thanks. Please keep us up-to-date (Injen really should be doing this proactively). I've had their CAI for nearly a year now and have been waiting for their resolution to this issue as well (because MA emissions will fail with logged codes).
I'll try a non-stainless plated drain plug that was pulled off the diff on the TC whereas stainless plugs on the diffs. Paste on all plugs. Will keep an eye on them regardless.
At 4K, the transfer case fluid does appear to have some very fine metal contamination. Adding a magnetic drain plug.
Anyone have concerns with corrosion being that the TC housing is aluminum. The original TC plugs have what appears to be a heavier zinc dip relative to the diff plugs.
I had installed sorbothane tophat washers to help isolate the sub enclosure from the chassis. This, along with stuffing the rear panel, eliminated the rattles even when driving higher power. Here are the deets on that...
This is what I ended-up going with as well.
Tuning my setup using the driver's headrest, while sounding great in that seat, left the passenger side way too bright and harsh. And, I didn't want to try a bunch of averaging. Ended up sounding great using the armrest position.
Funny enough, capsaicin is considered a deterrent. I thought they had talked about formulating the wire insulation to include this but maybe not. There is capsaicin laced wire wrap tape available on the market ... sounds like a pita to retrofit.
The t-harness essentially interposes 3 of the channels: center, rear left, rear right. All of the other channels are directly wired into the amp using the factory harness (assuming the amp location is in the stock location with upgraded/lux package).
An alternative to the t-harness is to wire...