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If your really interested google Ford B&O system bass roll off. Lots of info out there on F150 and mustang forums. Not something you can Forscan away IIRC.

Right. The difference between the sub and kick panel channels is the DSP artificially eases up on bass for the sub channel at high volumes, to hide the inadequacy of the factory sub. In my testing I could only detect this a bit at volumes in the 20s. So I did not bother making the switch...

Either way will be fine. Most of us just used the sub inputs for convenience. If your not looking to shake the neighborhood with volume level above 21, you will not notice a difference at all. This upgrade path is based on easy upgrade, with marginal cost and high return. If your looking for...

I’ll be tight but I think there might be room for both.

Huge oversite on Fords part. I bought some clips years ago when I first got the Bronco, forget what vendor had them, but the adhesive doesn't stick to the Bronco very well and have to redo it all the time.

Hey look at that, a plastic window that is designed to flex and fold, that doesn't look like a soggy diaper! We were led to believe that was technically impossible :ROFLMAO:

Ugh. Not true. Maybe reread and comprehend the post. It explains how to get the indication with an Apple Maps route to work.

Nice work. I also hated the dash mounting option, and all other available options, so I cobbled this magsafe charging option together a couple years ago. I think the grab handle area is the best spot...

Copied this update from OPs original post in case anyone missed it. I have verifed the same functionality in mine. I NEVER use the built in Ford NAV, so thats why the speed limit sign disappears when I use a route from any app in Carplay. I can live with it lol. UPDATE: I apparently did not...

Not in mine. Apple or google maps, or Waze, with a route enabled, no speed limit indication on IP. Have never tried the built in Nav, and never will lol.

If you have an active navigation route, the speed limit in the instrument panel goes away, dumb AF. An update changed that long ago. Otherwise it should be there. Any trim.

No and no. Have you removed the panels and dug in yet? It’s pretty straightforward, those wires become your amp input wires.

Because it is most definitely loud AF.

Agree with this. Sounds like you have the line level input setting wrong. And definitely turn the gain down before correcting!

No, not needed on B&O

Looks cool. You used up an aux swith for USB?!?

Is that big ass logo on the side for real? Ooof, that will ruin a nice looking top real quick.

Step one, find an installer who is not clueless.

It should be, if you can find a dealer who will put in the replacement. Its been a hit or miss, because Ford was denying things for a long time, and some service writers remember the denials and wont put in new requests for what's been denied in the past.

I'm guessing you had an early version of the skyrider. That cable stop broke on mine and several others around here when first released. Bestop will replace the cable. Surprised you never noticed, well you did notice all the noise the broken tension cable creates lmao.