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I could use green shocks!

I would buy the 0 offset and not worry about having to cut out the front body mount crash bar to run 37s. 35mm offset would be fine with a metric narrow 35 like 285/75 r17. Need to figure out the tire you want at this point. I would look hard at RTR zero offset hub centric wheels, they hold up...

Did you just winch up? No trouble shooting? Turn on and off? Need more information! I have a theory that if the Abs detects an abnormal signal it cuts power. @NORCALGXP had issues with an ABS sensor it completely cut power. When I blew my front diff and went crashing backwards I had no brakes...

@GreyZ & @userdude just resistors and relays to make the computer happy. I am pretty sure you can just swap out a module from ebay and make the computer happy just like the Front Axle Disconnect trick.

Both steering racks have the same turning radius and steering ratio. The break down, this is to clear the spindle. 0mm offset for 13.5" wide tires 18mm to 25mm offset for 12.5" wide tires 55mm for 11" wide tires 0mm offset is the best for clearing crash bars and tire fitment. Back in 2021 when...

I run 285/70 R17 off brand Fortune R/T tires($850 for 5) on the commuter jeep. Common size, aggressive tread and quiet which is odd for a cheap tire. I just couldn't justify the extra money for the 255 tire, I had to put the money towards new wheels!

Issue resolved! I will eventually figure out the module at some point.

Sway bar disconnect will leak and stop working. Or if the connector gets damaged stops working. No one to my knowledge has repaired a leaky one and got it to function. The sway bar delete is coming, just need someone desperate enough to foot the bill for the experiment. May be a wiring harness...

Party on the Rubicon!

CJ5 with CJ7 glass body, scout 44s, np435 and AMC 304... Nothing says jeep, like nothing being jeep and being towed home...

How many ended up upsidedown? My CJ rear axle was always trying to pass the front end.

I don't prefer it... window insurance does lol.

Bronco is currently crack free, jeep has a 1" spider crack rock chip. Mostly angle from my experience, you hear the rocks hit the F150 all the time and in 10 years its on its second window. From my personal experience the off brand windshield last longer. Every time I splurge on factory glass...

Because they came from Broncbuster and he went under.

Was a 2"x2" digital one with a magnet base. It read to the hundredth till I melted it it welding my trunk box.

Rack programming with FDRS is based on the Vehicles Vin so It would load the correct software and install it. Pretty easy as long as FDRS servers are not down.

@87-Z28 I shoot for zero on my gauge. More tire kick out helps with tracking from my experience.

I hit your customer service up in January of 2024 about the kit. Now I am no longer interested in being the first one. The kit looks nice but I have absolutely no clue if it would hold up to years of abuse. Go take that pretty bronco through some rock gardens and test those lower control arms. I...

You need FDRS and just to program the rack. Since it was factory, Ford software should work just fine. 2-3 hours to install, program and then an alignment.

I set my camber with a digital gauge from harbor freight. Eyeball my alignment and adjust it as needed based on tire wear. 99% of alignment places have no clue what they are doing besides making the computer number green.