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Maybe I'm just slow, but it must have taken me 4-5 tries to get my rig into brake service mode...

Post up a shot(s) of your poke!

Hyperco 2" lift HD Springs (Rear Only): I kind of got 3 birds with one stone here. Removed spring collars (kind of a temporary/hack fix anyway), leveled the rear (vs. front) and now have springs more appropriate for my load and largely corrected the listing. AI "guesses" that the factory...

Hyperco 2" lift HD Springs (Rears Only): I kind of got 3 birds with one stone here. Removed spring collars (kind of a temporary/hack fix anyway), leveled the rear (vs. front) and now have springs more appropriate for my load and largely corrected the listing. More back story here as to my...

When wheeling in the desert 2 weekends ago my buddy mentioned I appeared titled to one side on flat ground. I kind of just dismissed it and didn't even inspect. Me, no way, I thought. What I did notice later is that my rear end (just looking at fender to wheel gaps) was quite a bit lower than...

^ Indeed, pads more important than rotors. My ASE Certified mechanic also told me today that no dealer purchased OEM Toyota brake pads last nearly as long as the supposed factory installed pad. Seems like a classic bait and switch... Wouldn't be surprised if the same from Ford.

Initially I considered the whole Power Stop package. After further research and noting how good the factory brakes are, I decided on R1 Concepts rotors and Dynamic Friction Ultimate Duty pads.

Seems very reasonable, esp at a dealer in part because fluid is expensive.

Interesting that left rear and right rear are totally different tecniques but same numbers. I've not measured my own yet but have some likely spring set (factory springs) issues.

Now assuming this is a serious post.... This sounds like a very difficult/advanced hobbyist electronics project to say the least. If the function is isolated to a single IC, how do you plan to remove it and what will you reconnect it to? That doesn't begin to address that the IC likely will not...

I put the PPE pan with extra capacity in long ago. It helps the whole process for sure, but even with the added capacity, a single drain does not remove but about half of the fluid, necessitating multiple drains for a significant flush. That and the almost unreachable fill spot right next to...

Same, use it often at lower speeds for both articulation as well as comfort.

I was quoted anywhere from $250 - $1100 for a trans fluid flush here in San Diego. $1100, that's a good one, eh 🤣? Unfortunately, the shop offering the $250 price didn't actually have a flushing machine and stated that it was only a drain and fill and filter change. That gets you only about half...

I'm sure you know, but they are BEAD LOCK CAPABLE and are delivered with a cosmetic only "bead lock" ring. Functional rings must be purchased separately and your tires have to be removed or the front bead brought over the lip to install.

Disagree, I use this regularly. More in a professional setting but in both.

Interesting, it's definitely not just the DTE that's off, it's both the full level and empty level as well. The factory float isn't even close to working properly here. I could certainly live with DTE off, but @fkoffroad @Shawn Ma should have provided some modified or corrected level gauge parts.

Ha, took the words right outta my mouth! That said, it's actually not really happening. A miracle. We do, however, have the contingent posting here who clearly can't read or follow simple instructions...

Wow, you really can't read eh? OP wanted a confirmation from those with NO CRACKS...

Looks like a nice jack, that said, if you just want something for basic tire changes, a very small bottle jack with a small throw is all you need, just choose your jack points carefully.

Bump. Where are the attendees here?