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Long video, but this is all you need to know: NEVER ATTACH ANYTHING DIRECLY TO THE BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL. Not a jump starter, not a charger, nothing.

I posted install notes here, but read entire thread for more details. https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/hoss-3-0-severe-duty-steering-rack-and-tie-rods-parts-has-arrived-part-number-nb3z-3504-m.51284/post-1680448

Many thanks to @BigMeatsBronco and @Bmadda for blazing the trail. I did the upgrade today and it was surprisingly easy. The trick of removing the front diff bracket, removing the entire driver tierod, and removing the passenger LCA bolt made the mechanical part painless (dramatically easier than...

I received and installed the Icon swaybar spacer kit. I also installed the upgraded steering rack and tie rods (wildtrak hoss 3.0 parts) on my badlands. Plenty of clearance now!

Ford service manual says to replace everything... but nobody does. It would probably be difficult and expensive to get some of them. Loctite if a concern.

The order confirmation email cracked me up!

Yes, just depends on where you want to control it.

Sorry, I was thinking of another truck. The Bronco AUX switches are based on delayed-accessory power also and don't need the engine to be running (just accessory power on).

Correct. You only need to use DLY_ACC+ARB switch, or AUX. You can use AUX+ARB if you want to (both switches would need to be turned on). Whichever you choose, be careful not to drain the battery by using compressor with engine off.

Congrats and thanks for the detailed instructions! Did you need to use a 2dr donor VIN, or will a 4dr WT 3.0 suffice?

Thanks, I was following the thread, but I didn't realize I needed to request the fix again.

It is likely that the Icon rods will fit in the 3.0 rack, since the 3.0 tie rods fit in the light duty rack. I've also been watching the rack upgrades, but haven't pulled the trigger yet.

2dr/4dr Hoss 1.0/2.0/3.0 rods are compatible, but BRaptor is different/unique. Icon will compete with the Ford Performance rods (Wildtrak Hoss 3.0 parts). It is yet to be seen if one offers a clear advantage when paired with the light duty rack. The Icon price is expected to be lower than the...

There are serious clearance issues that vary between Broncos. You can try rotating the lower mount, but there is a good chance that your swaybar link will hit the spring instead. I wasn't willing to sacrifice turning angle or rip up my tie rod boot, so currently my swaybar links contact the...

Icon provided prototype fixes to a few people about 2 months ago, but I think the rest of us are still waiting to receive a stud kit to fix the problem. I hope Icon will be able to provide these fixes soon. I'm disappointed that Icon has been taking so long to fix this. If you don't want to...

Stock bilstein is supposedly 415 in front. In rear, dual rate 165 (first 4") and 290.

I don't remember the details, but I think there was a lever on the connector to push it out of the fuse box. You will add the extra terminal(s) in the connector after it is pulled out and shell pulled back or removed. The fuse box itself already has the fuses and connector pins.

No pictures, but if I remember correctly, there was a small black cable tie on the wires/cover that needs to be clipped (and replaced when reassembling). Also, I think there was a small metal tab on the new terminal that need to be clipped in order to insert it in the connector (perhaps...

Good point. My Raptor joints pop out easily by striking the knuckle, but it didn't work for my Bronco. I would be willing to hit it a lot harder for a bush fix, but threaded separator seems a better choice for garage.

Same here. Mine are very tight when torqued to 46lb-ft. A hammer won't do anything except mushroom the stud end. Ford warns against using a hammer for the tie rod or uca joint to avoid breaking the cast knuckle. Threaded tie rod separator is the safest option, and sometimes the only thing that...