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Front diff pinion seals are known for failing.

Nope. In fact I can't even understand why someone would buy a Bronco with the intention of never taking it offroad. There's countless better road cars.

Well shoot, if it doesn't work with a new phone I'm at a loss. Gotta be an issue with the vehicles Bluetooth module. If you're still under warranty I'd probably ask the dealer about getting a a new APIM.

Dealers aren't exactly tech savvy. According to the play store, android auto only supports 8.0 and up. If you're on 5.2, that could explain it. Though I would expect standard, non AA Bluetooth to still work. But we're still talking about an extremely outdated phone so who knows. We're up to...

You're using a phone that came out over a decade ago and blaming Ford? I bet if you upgrade to proper phone rather than something that isn't even sold anymore all your problems would go away. What version of android does that thing run? Does android auto even support support something of that...

Sounds like the tires to me as well...

You just pull the 4 bolts holding the swaybar up and lower it down onto a jackstand. You only need enough clearance to get the rear LCA bolts out. The wires are long enough to lower it down without unplugging anything. You don't have to take the CVs to full extension to make enough room to get...

No specific brand but I'm a fan of the slide/cam lock style ones with either carabiners or loops on the end. No bare/open hooks and ratchets suck unless you need the extra tightening power. The ones with springs in them to keep constant pressure are nice too.

I assume you're asking so that you don't accidently buy it... right?

The F150, F150 Raptor, and Braptor all use the same 6x135 bolt pattern. All "regular" Broncos use a different (6x5.5) pattern...because Ford liked to be difficult. As for the other specs, it's easy enough to Google the offset and hub bore of each models factory wheels and go from there.

I don't have a pic handy at the moment but I have a first aid kit and bear spray on one seat, and a firearm holster, fixed blade knife, and a small pouch containing a leatherman and extra ammo on the other seat.

'24 Raptor 802A and my '76 High Boy peeking out of the garage.

Well the various reinforcements bolt to the tailgate as well, they sandwich between the tire carrier and the sheet metal and tie everything together

Looks like they're hanging that off an un-reinforced tailgate and hinges. They don't list the weight but let's assume 15lbs. Plus 4 gallons of water and you're putting nearly 50lbs on your tailgate. It looks like a cool concept, but you're gonna want to think about tailgate reinforcement for sure.

I'd trust the seasuckers any day, plenty of people use them and with bigger items than a rotopax or traction boards. But there's a less than zero chance I would ever even slightly trust the Broncos windows to not come flying out of the top. We all know how poorly built these roofs are. Putting...

Yea...take a look at that rear cross member and then let us know if you still want to overload it. Don't forget you should have 10-15% trailer weight sitting on your tongue. Thats gonna have a hell of an affect on your rear suspension

I'd recommend one as well. When I put a heavier but still 35" tire on mine there was noticeable sag... door was bumping and lifting up onto the striker when closing. I went with a hammer built plate and Raptor hinges.

I'm getting Monument valley vibes, but I'm not confident.

Yup, it's a junk system. Even in the F150 with actual lane centering you have to constantly jiggle the wheel to keep the alerts away. Ford needed to adopt a capacitive wheel before adding lane assist but that would've cost money and well...Ford.

Ford no longer monitors this forum, and they weren't exactly helpful when they did. If you can't narrow down where it's coming from yourself, your best bet is unfortunately to take it to the dealer. It's brand new, you have a warranty. First thing I'd do is remove the roof, visually inspect...