OK AUDIOPHILES, what do we think of this STEREO BUILPLAN?

[T800]

I would try to use the same speaker in the front and rear pods. I did go with the Audison 4" coax and they do sound really good. Hertz and Kicker would also sound much better than the OEM speakers.

For a basic system for a non-audiophile, it's not necessary to get a DSP. No doubt it would sound better, but really up to you if you want to spend the money.

What I had installed Friday:

Amp: Audison SR6.6600
Audio Control LC7i-pro
Audison Prima 4" Coaxial - front and rear pods
Hertz 6.75” DCX 170.3 in the kick panels
Single JL 12” 12TW1 (sealed, downfiring box from my previous DD)

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[Brian_B]

For a basic system for a non-audiophile, it's not necessary to get a DSP. No doubt it would sound better, but really up to you if you want to spend the money.

I will say - if you get just a straight amp (as I started out with) - it will work.

But, you either have to run with the Ford EQ enabled (and lose the extended range from better speakers) or just live with the fact that you can't correct the speaker time/phase alignment and it will sound echoey or hollow at times.

That's why I would recommend getting some sort of DSP that can correct for that. The Kicker Key can (and there are others, it's not the only one, just one of the more popular ones), but you can't make any adjustments beyond the auto-tune feature (which is fine for most people). You don't necessarily need to jump straight to something high end and pricey with a high degree of customization to get it.

 

[rodmf]

I would try to use the same speaker in the front and rear pods. I did go with the Audison 4" coax and they do sound really good. Hertz and Kicker would also sound much better than the OEM speakers.

For a basic system for a non-audiophile, it's not necessary to get a DSP. No doubt it would sound better, but really up to you if you want to spend the money.

What I had installed Friday:

Amp: Audison SR6.6600
Audio Control LC7i-pro
Audison Prima 4" Coaxial - front and rear pods
Hertz 6.75” DCX 170.3 in the kick panels
Single JL 12” 12TW1 (sealed, downfiring box from my previous DD)

Alright I’m pricing these Audison 4”. Looking for a local shop to hear them before o decide on these vs the Hertz. Same producer—assuming Audison is a little better but it’d be nice to hear them.

Curious: Why Hertz for the kickers instead of Audison?

Thanks for taking the time. Huge help.

 

[rodmf]

I will say - if you get just a straight amp (as I started out with) - it will work.

But, you either have to run with the Ford EQ enabled (and lose the extended range from better speakers) or just live with the fact that you can't correct the speaker time/phase alignment and it will sound echoey or hollow at times.

That's why I would recommend getting some sort of DSP that can correct for that. The Kicker Key can (and there are others, it's not the only one, just one of the more popular ones), but you can't make any adjustments beyond the auto-tune feature (which is fine for most people). You don't necessarily need to jump straight to something high end and pricey with a high degree of customization to get it.

Brian, all of your posts have confirmed my hopes re the Kicker Key amp. And this last post explained the why really well. Eternally grateful. Thank you!

 

[rodmf]

Bothe Hertz and Audison are excellent. I have used Audison DSP amps which was excellent, and currently use Hertz MPBX300S2 sub box and MP 163.3 kick speakers ( pulled from Mustang) as well as Audison MP in the pods.

For the Bronco on a fresh build I'd just get everything Audison because it's one of the few brands you can source 4" and 6.5" woofers along with 4" coax, as well as options for powered sub enclosures that has integrated LOC so it's plug and play into any source, as well and various other sub options and amps. It all works together seamlessly with Audison focusing on system integration VS Hertz that's more focused on components and custom builds.

If you go to diyobileaudio you can pick up a lot of good stuff like Hertz MP and ML plus Audison Prima very cheap as audio builders graduate to exotic brands or just change minds on what using. There is also a lot of niche brands that are great quality at a fraction of the price of new popular brands.

In the end a good sub will deliver best immediate return.

Thank you. Looking for a local shop to compare sounds of Audison vs Hertz. Leaning towards Audison. I like the idea of all 6 by the same brand. Then a Kicker Key amp. Seems like it’ll meet my needs and it keeps costs down—amd is straightforward. My installer (amazing rate) is super detailed and knowledgeable. He works on cars but hasn’t done this so the plug and play Kicker Key with the video I found sounds easy for him.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Thank you. Looking for a local shop to compare sounds of Audison vs Hertz. Leaning towards Audison. I like the idea of all 6 by the same brand. Then a Kicker Key amp. Seems like it’ll meet my needs and it keeps costs down—amd is straightforward. My installer (amazing rate) is super detailed and knowledgeable. He works on cars but hasn’t done this so the plug and play Kicker Key with the video I found sounds easy for him.

There is no way to keep costs down. All brands sound more or less the same and won't notice a difference in noisy Bronco. I retained the B&O amp simply to retain the tune. Addition of sub amp and sub made huge difference.

I tried a key in my Mustang and it was a waste of money plus it failed after 4 weeks, warranty service was a total joke, at which point installed Audison Bit 8.9 and sold the key when got back 4 mths later at a 30% loss.

 

[T800]

Alright I’m pricing these Audison 4”. Looking for a local shop to hear them before o decide on these vs the Hertz. Same producer—assuming Audison is a little better but it’d be nice to hear them.

Curious: Why Hertz for the kickers instead of Audison?

Thanks for taking the time. Huge help.

I figure with the kick panels, pretty much anything is going to be fine. It's not a good spot for mids or highs (firing into your ankles), but a good area for mid-bass. I thought of getting a component woofer, but my sales guy said it wouldn't hurt to have a tweeter there too.

I even thought of leaving the OEM speakers there, but figured if I do that, in a month one will blow or something. The shop didn't charge me extra to install those, and I know it's kind of a pain to get to. They had the Hertz 6.75" in stock and he said they would work well in that spot, at that price range.

 

[rodmf]

I figure with the kick panels, pretty much anything is going to be fine. It's not a good spot for mids or highs (firing into your ankles), but a good area for mid-bass. I thought of getting a component woofer, but my sales guy said it wouldn't hurt to have a tweeter there too.

I even thought of leaving the OEM speakers there, but figured if I do that, in a month one will blow or something. The shop didn't charge me extra to install those, and I know it's kind of a pain to get to. They had the Hertz 6.75" in stock and he said they would work well in that spot, at that price range.

Good deal, thanks man!

 

[MarkInOhio]

I know I'm hijacking the thread, but there seems to be a lot of expertise here, so...

We have a Braptor with the usual B&O system and would like a significant upgrade with a few caveats. We've installed the complete Goose Gear rear package, including rear seat elimination, so at this point changing out the sub would be WAY too much work. I'm assuming just improving it's amp will help somewhat. For that same reason, we'd be unable to do any sort of sound deadening aft of the front seats, but would be able to do the front area and all 4 doors. I'd guess the Goose Gear and the stuff stored in it will probably provide some sound deadening (or maybe it will make things worse!). I'd also like any replacement speakers to fit within the current spots in the doors and dash, but would certainly be willing to go with a set of larger pods for the rear speakers.

Keeping within those parameters, what would you suggest for someone willing to spend whatever it takes (within reason - I don't want to get past the point where doubled cost yields a negligible improvement) to create the best possible system - low distortion, great soundstage, adequate volume, etc?

Thanks (and apologies for the hijack),
Mark

 

[HotdogThud]

Honestly, unless you're willing to go deep into five figures for your car audio, you can't really call yourself an audiophile.






This is sarcasm, for the record

 

[ducksface]

I know I'm hijacking the thread, but there seems to be a lot of expertise here, so...

We have a Braptor with the usual Bose system and would like a significant upgrade with a few caveats. We've installed the complete Goose Gear rear package, including rear seat elimination, so at this point changing out the sub would be WAY too much work. I'm assuming just improving it's amp will help somewhat. For that same reason, we'd be unable to do any sort of sound deadening aft of the front seats, but would be able to do the front area and all 4 doors. I'd guess the Goose Gear and the stuff stored in it will probably provide some sound deadening (or maybe it will make things worse!). I'd also like any replacement speakers to fit within the current spots in the doors and dash, but would certainly be willing to go with a set of larger pods for the rear speakers.

Keeping within those parameters, what would you suggest for someone willing to spend whatever it takes (within reason - I don't want to get past the point where doubled cost yields a negligible improvement) to create the best possible system - low distortion, great soundstage, adequate volume, etc?

Thanks (and apologies for the hijack),
Mark

Without headphones making up for part of the road noise, you have a 75db baseline of road and wind noise you have to overcome.
It won't go away. Neophyte might not hear it...purist won't dismss it.

That's the bottom line.
Ego, lack of knowledge, purposeful ignorance plays deeply into stereo choices in a vehicle with a 75db base.

But
In fairness:
In the way back, a high end German stereo actually startled me badly. There's a cymbal snare in the right front speaker when playing bohemian rhapsody.
At 70mph I almost jerked the wheel when it came through. I had never heard it in any other speaker/stereo system. It was loud and rang like a...cymbal snare(or whatever rattling a cymbal is called)...

 

[MarkInOhio]

Without headphones making up for part of the road noise, you have a 75db baseline of road and wind noise you have to overcome.
It won't go away. Neophyte might not hear it...purist won't dismss it.

That's the bottom line.
Ego, lack of knowledge, purposeful ignorance plays deeply into stereo choices in a vehicle with a 75db base.

I understand that. And maybe I am being ignorant (purposefully or otherwise). However, it is what we have to work with and I'd like to do the best possible to overcome that so the music can at least become enjoyable (which, currently, it is not so much).

Mark

 

[Brian_B]

so at this point changing out the sub would be WAY too much work. I'm assuming just improving it's amp will help somewhat.

Factory sub on B&O system is probably gonna blow if you try powering it from an external amp (and you would have to get to the sub to do that anyway as the amp is bolted onto the side of the sub)

You have two options really -

You could do an external sub: tailgate mounted, C-pillar mounted, cargo box, etc… and just deal with the fact that it will be visible and take up room. Leave the OEM retired in place.

Or

Bite the bullet, rip your stuff back out to get into the passenger side and do whatever you want to the sub there

 

[T800]

I know I'm hijacking the thread, but there seems to be a lot of expertise here, so...

We have a Braptor with the usual Bose system and would like a significant upgrade with a few caveats. We've installed the complete Goose Gear rear package, including rear seat elimination, so at this point changing out the sub would be WAY too much work. I'm assuming just improving it's amp will help somewhat. For that same reason, we'd be unable to do any sort of sound deadening aft of the front seats, but would be able to do the front area and all 4 doors. I'd guess the Goose Gear and the stuff stored in it will probably provide some sound deadening (or maybe it will make things worse!). I'd also like any replacement speakers to fit within the current spots in the doors and dash, but would certainly be willing to go with a set of larger pods for the rear speakers.

Keeping within those parameters, what would you suggest for someone willing to spend whatever it takes (within reason - I don't want to get past the point where doubled cost yields a negligible improvement) to create the best possible system - low distortion, great soundstage, adequate volume, etc?

Thanks (and apologies for the hijack),
Mark

I'm not familiar with the bose system or Goose Gear. Essentially budget is key. I just did an all aftermarket system for about $2000. Though was able to use the sub from my previous DD.

If you don't want to take up any room, I've read it's not too much work to get an 8" in the factory location. Some have gotten a 10" in there. Custom enclosures are available. That will likely be fine if you're not a bass head and just want it to sound as good as possible without losing storage.

So on that note, you're looking at whatever will fit in the OEM locations. Want to spend more money? Sure, you can find a high end shop to put components in custom encloseures everywhere.

For an amp, the 5/6 channel makes sense. Multiple amps will sound better. Often people will do a separate sub amp. Though you have to figure out where to put everything. I started with a JL amp. It wouldn't fit under the drivers seat, so went to an Audison amp that would. You can tuck them behind panels, that is more labor.

A DSP is another way to get better sound. You really can't call it high end without a DSP. So again, more money. Maybe not necessary for a non-audiophile.

So basic, you have a 5 ch amp, audiocontrol LC7, and speakers. I see no reason to upgrade the rear pods to 6.5". I'd prefer keep the front and rear the same. Also figure front stage is more important with audio. So maybe I'd be interested if there was some sort of front upgrade pod to 6.5". Pass on just the rear, it's just fill.

The Audiocontrol Stinger tailgate sub is a good option to not lose much space:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-U1tYj...eXuKw3g3irC40xx5nCt0P2yEeJIBdFHcaAjOoEALw_wcB

 

[Imwickedlost]

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