How to disable the speed limitations for the side mirror lights?

[B22-2023]

Not totally buttoned down yet, but ready to clean up with Tessa tape etc. now that it’s been on the road a few days no problems. Codes all cleared.

I have not run it at night - I thought these would make good clearance lights for long night drives but those spots are bright, the amber tape may not be enough to disperse them. See if I get flashed next trip.

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[Chrome_Pony]

I’ve seen some great materials at a couple of Walmart automotive sections lately. I think I would buy the butt connectors, primary wire and even this compact (and inexpensive) heat gun there if I were starting this project without any materials:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/1172297?sid=f47166a2-99fc-4a6e-9710-c1a0e684c7ba

https://www.walmart.com/ip/5056953180?sid=7fa5de03-4e6d-4ae6-a3c2-3d7828c6d049

https://www.walmart.com/ip/303931156?sid=79af4855-662b-47de-9a0b-138c8c90c1a0

And even this heat shrink might be big enough to fit over the Amazon 15A diodes: https://www.walmart.com/ip/1409015608?sid=0de4d830-8e42-4fba-8ab8-3f928e85dbfb

And here is the result of the mirror spot with no headlights or fog lights

Interesting.

This is the first post that has me considering this mod to the most useless lights on the entire vehicle. I also have the Oracle mirror caps, and the side throw seems to be better on the OEMs. Together they should be amazing.

 

[B22-2023]

Interesting.

This is the first post that has me considering this mod to the most useless lights on the entire vehicle. I also have the Oracle mirror caps, and the side throw seems to be better on the OEMs. Together they should be amazing.

Originally that’s what I was planning, gang these spots to the my Oracle mirror lights. But the Oracle ones are so bright, and I like the look and function of side markers so went this way.

 

[SasBLSven]

Figured I’d mention this…

I was able to tap into the OEM wires without cutting anything and without any diodes with no issues. Maintained OEM function of lights and have them working on an AUX switch so they don’t turn off after 5 mph

However thinking about redoing it and adding in the puddle lights with diodes so I get both of the mirror lights to come on with the same AUX switch while maintaining the OEM function of everything

Would love to do this

 

[Mybbackpacker]

I just used wire taps with Aux 3. Didn’t use diodes. Been working well for 4 years

 

[Copper Red NC]

Figured I’d mention this…

I was able to tap into the OEM wires without cutting anything and without any diodes with no issues. Maintained OEM function of lights and have them working on an AUX switch so they don’t turn off after 5 mph

However thinking about redoing it and adding in the puddle lights with diodes so I get both of the mirror lights to come on with the same AUX switch while maintaining the OEM function of everything

wanted to update that I added diodes and tapped into the puddle lights as well. Mirror cameras are now much more useful at night. Have not had any issues and everything is still working as it should. Needed the diodes to get everything to work properly with the puddles, but diodes were not needed when I just tapped the mirror zone lights

 

[cbrenthus]

I'll have to revisit this, these lights make great deer spotters, don't want to run them all the time but would be nice to switch them on without regard to speed. At least Ford gives us 5mph, RAM's shut off at any speed

 

[Run3gun]

Bronco does not share the same wiring harness as the F-150
Without getting into details that are probably even over my head, basically the switches are sending a momentary (not continuous!) ground to a module which then takes that input and powers a circuit to the lights. The power is 100% controlled straight from the module, and there's no "tricking" it with a jumper wire.
If there is a way to disable the speed limitation, it will be in the software, and currently there is no known procedure in forscan for it and probably won't be. The only other potential way would be a module similar to 4DTech's can opener, but they make modules like that for other Fords and they've already said they're not able to make one.

TL;DR no, not unless you're REALLY good at automotive computer programming and/or are capable of making some sort of arduino+relay board that bypasses the module.

Don't fret though, you have another option, though it's not quite as elegant.
You can tap into the wire going to the lights and power it with a different circuit, then cut the OEM wire so you're not back feeding voltage into the module.
I actually did this today so it's fresh on my mind.

At the hood hinges on both sides, you'll see two rather large 16-ish pin connectors just forward of the hinges along the fender. This is the connector that goes to the mirror assembly. On the driver side, you'll see a solid brown wire (if you look close, you'll see it's marked pin #8), that's your power wire to the spot light. On the passenger side, there will be a purple wire with a brown stripe, again on pin #8, that powers the passenger spot light. These are the two wires you'll tap into and run to your own switch. Before you start cutting and splicing, take a multimeter and verify that when you power the lights on you get voltage on that wire, and when you turn the lights off you lose voltage, just as a precaution in case Ford changed the wiring after mine. You can shove the probe into the connector without disassembling anything. Once verified, find a good open spot to tap into the wire, then cut the supply wire in front of your tap (wire goes from mirror to connector and forward from there). Give yourself enough room to splice that wire back together if you abandon the idea years from now and want to revert back to stock function (who knows, someone might find a workaround in forscan). Don't try to power the lights until you've cut the wire going to the module, I don't know if it'll brick the module by sending 12V to it, but there's no sense in finding out. Insulate or shrinkwrap the exposed wire, run the wires to an aux switch or whatever you're using, tidy everything up, and you're all set.

I wired the two mirror spots to my rock lights on AUX 3. I figured since they're designed to be area/periphery lighting, they'd compliment the rock lights when I use them as they're not high lumen ditch lights that will blind a spotter, and if I needed the spots to see something beside me (looking for a campsite, finding a lost item on the side of the road, keeping an eye on the terrain next to me, checking the mailbox at night, etc.), having the rock lights turn on with them wouldn't be a detriment in those situations. I lose the ability to individually select them, but I've never encountered a situation where being able to select only one side has benefitted me much at all. Good news though, you can wire them up however you like, put the left on AUX 1 and the right on AUX 6, install more switches, or whatever else you want to do. If you do end up wiring them in a different way, I'd be interested to know how and why you did, I might want to copy you and tell my wife I came up with the idea LOL

Any pictures of the harness ?

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