[How-To] Subwoofer Upgrade - Replacing/Upgrading the Factory Sub

[RagnarKon]

So I have a 22 with the B&O system and I've been trying to figure how to wire my Skar 1200.1 amp into a Skar VD8 sub. I have a SKE2LOC as well I'm trying to get wired I can't find any information on where to tap into in order to get it working. Tried running my amp power wire and jumping the LOC from it. But I still can't get any power going to it.

The B&O system uses a digital audio protocol, so you cannot remove/bypass the factory amplifier.

You have to run a new power wire from the battery back to your amplifier/LOC, then take the output from factory amplifier to feed your SKE2LOC, and the output from the SKE2LOC to feed your Skar 1200.1 amp.

Wiring diagrams are on my original post, you'll need to take the outputs that feed the factory sub and use those to feed your LOC.

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[mattymik]

This seems like as good a place as any to ask:

I'm in a '23 WildTrak -- the one that came with the dummy sub.

About 2 years ago, I did the Kicker Key 200.4, the kicker speakers in the dash, and the new SSV pods with kicker 6.5" speakers in back. (Also bought the kick panel ones but never got around to it ... seems like a project I can't find the time for).

I then used the Key to calibrate the system with that setup.

Definitely a huge improvement over stock. But honestly the dash was still a little "tinny" with some of the highs, for example when you hear a woman talking on a podcast, or some cymbals in rock music. But whatever -- I lived with it.


Recently, I bought a Ford Fusion Amp, Added the 6.75" Kicker Sub, and used ForScan to activate.

It's definitely so much better than before. But I still have the tinny highs in front. Plus, I'm not sure
if I need to re-calibrate the system since I've added a sub and another amp.


Should I run the auto equalizer on the Key again? Is there another setting I should change? Do you need further information from me so I can help you help me, so to speak?

Thanks all.