Dana 44 Ultimate / Dana 60 after running for a month

[Max1h]

Just wrapped up my Dana 60 rear, Ultimate Dana 44 front, and Fox 3.0 upgrade and finally got to really test it at UBB running John’s Trail, Milts, Plan B, and Sliplock — and honestly, the rig performed flawlessly.

The Dana 60 took a little extra work. It doesn’t come with all the factory brake line mounting locations, so I had to weld a tab off the diff cover bolts to secure everything properly. It also doesn’t have a rear sway bar mount like stock, but you can make it work if you really want to keep one. I also had to build a driveshaft since the Dana 60 runs a 1350. I converted the rear shaft to 1350, and I’m in the process of converting the front to 1350 as well for added strength. The Ultimate Dana 44 was way easier overall — I’d just recommend putting the steering rack in first before the front diff to save yourself some headache.

Most of my issues came from running Sasquatch 2.0 shocks with the Spicer CVs. The boots are a lot bigger than stock, and I had rubbing with the sway bar links and the shock reservoir. Which ended up folding in the boot a little, i had to pull the clamp off and readjust the boot and let air in to get it back to normal shape. I ended up cutting and extending the sway bar links about 2 inches and welding them back together, which solved that problem and let me keep the electronic disconnect. The shock interference pushed me to upgrade to the Fox 3.0 race coilovers, and honestly that ended up being one of the best decisions on the whole build.

Switching from a puck lift to the 3.0s gave me a lot more up travel, but that also introduced some front rubbing at full stuff. I also had to shorten my Next Venture rock sliders because they were rubbing at full compression — mine are the older version, and the newer design is shorter and would clear without needing modification. I’m planning to fix the rest of the rubbing with Foutz bump stops, and possibly upgrading to wider and taller fenders down the road. One thing I’d definitely do differently — if you’re running over a 1” body lift, just get the longer Ford Ranger bolts and trim them. I tried aftermarket bolts and they didn’t hold up at all… rounded threads and even snapped one off inside the body, which turned into a whole situation since there’s no access to the nut.
Performance-wise, going from 4.70 to 5.38 gears made a huge difference, and even with the added weight the Bronco still feels strong. The Fox 3.0s completely changed how it rides — it soaks up everything and feels way more capable all around.

Overall, I’m beyond happy with how it turned out. Easily one of the best upgrades I’ve done, and I’d do it again without hesitation. Already planning to build the second Bronco the same way. Once we work out all the kinks.

I’ve attached some photos — didn’t take many since I was in a time crunch for UBB. Literally got everything done the night before the first trail day, so UBB ended up being my shakedown run lol.


Tried to post photos in order but i failed. i'm new lol to posting a big post lol

Also thank you @SierraBronco for all the help through this process! And many more i likely will have lol

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[SierraBronco]

Just wrapped up my Dana 60 rear, Ultimate Dana 44 front, and Fox 3.0 upgrade and finally got to really test it at UBB running John’s Trail, Milts, Plan B, and Sliplock — and honestly, the rig performed flawlessly.

The Dana 60 took a little extra work. It doesn’t come with all the factory brake line mounting locations, so I had to weld a tab off the diff cover bolts to secure everything properly. It also doesn’t have a rear sway bar mount like stock, but you can make it work if you really want to keep one. I also had to build a driveshaft since the Dana 60 runs a 1350. I converted the rear shaft to 1350, and I’m in the process of converting the front to 1350 as well for added strength. The Ultimate Dana 44 was way easier overall — I’d just recommend putting the steering rack in first before the front diff to save yourself some headache.

Most of my issues came from running Sasquatch 2.0 shocks with the Spicer CVs. The boots are a lot bigger than stock, and I had rubbing with the sway bar links and the shock reservoir. Which ended up folding in the boot a little, i had to pull the clamp off and readjust the boot and let air in to get it back to normal shape. I ended up cutting and extending the sway bar links about 2 inches and welding them back together, which solved that problem and let me keep the electronic disconnect. The shock interference pushed me to upgrade to the Fox 3.0 race coilovers, and honestly that ended up being one of the best decisions on the whole build.

Switching from a puck lift to the 3.0s gave me a lot more up travel, but that also introduced some front rubbing at full stuff. I also had to shorten my Next Venture rock sliders because they were rubbing at full compression — mine are the older version, and the newer design is shorter and would clear without needing modification. I’m planning to fix the rest of the rubbing with Foutz bump stops, and possibly upgrading to wider and taller fenders down the road. One thing I’d definitely do differently — if you’re running over a 1” body lift, just get the longer Ford Ranger bolts and trim them. I tried aftermarket bolts and they didn’t hold up at all… rounded threads and even snapped one off inside the body, which turned into a whole situation since there’s no access to the nut.
Performance-wise, going from 4.70 to 5.38 gears made a huge difference, and even with the added weight the Bronco still feels strong. The Fox 3.0s completely changed how it rides — it soaks up everything and feels way more capable all around.

Overall, I’m beyond happy with how it turned out. Easily one of the best upgrades I’ve done, and I’d do it again without hesitation. Already planning to build the second Bronco the same way. Once we work out all the kinks.

I’ve attached some photos — didn’t take many since I was in a time crunch for UBB. Literally got everything done the night before the first trail day, so UBB ended up being my shakedown run lol.


Tried to post photos in order but i failed. i'm new lol to posting a big post lol

Also thank you @SierraBronco for all the help through this process! And many more i likely will have lol

Hell yeah man! Axles before lights or however the phrase goes. I kept asking people to turn on their lights when they were stuck and in need of a locker, and it didn’t seem to help. Though one of them didn’t have their lights wired in so that was probably an issue.

 

[Jason N]

What size tyres you running’?
I’m on 37’s with 4.70 and do a lot of highway driving. Run about 2100 rpm at 75. Curious to know how many rpm I’d be at with 5.38.

 

[SierraBronco]

What size tyres you running’?
I’m on 37’s with 4.70 and do a lot of highway driving. Run about 2100 rpm at 75. Curious to know how many rpm I’d be at with 5.38.

Since he hasn’t responded I’ll provide an example. With a ten speed, 40’s, and 6.17’s we’re…not very high, actually. 2450 rpm comes to mind but I could be mistaken.

 

[Max1h]

What size tyres you running’?
I’m on 37’s with 4.70 and do a lot of highway driving. Run about 2100 rpm at 75. Curious to know how many rpm I’d be at with 5.38.

I’m on 37s, Speed limit up here is 80 and I’m around 2500/2600 , digging out a broken body mount bolt if you’d like once its running again ill see what I’m at around 65mph , average mpg is like 11.5/12 lol I’m also on beadlocks at 30lbs tops so that plays a small factor

sorry for the late response

 

[Jason N]

No worries. Thanks for the info. Yeah I’m getting 13 mpg. Maxxis 10 ply tyres are freakin’ heavy.

 

[Jason N]

Since he hasn’t responded I’ll provide an example. With a ten speed, 40’s, and 6.17’s we’re…not very high, actually. 2450 rpm comes to mind but I could be mistaken.

6.17? Is that with portal gearing? I saw your write up about them a short while ago.

 

[SierraBronco]

6.17? Is that with portal gearing? I saw your write up about them a short while ago.

Kinda… rear axle is 6.17 though, yes.

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