Recent content by 87-Z28

Adding an unpopular opinion here. Control arms and links are not necessary for 99% of users. And not necessary for 2” lift. They are way over hyped and pushed. They are merely metal rods of given length. Oem lengths are fine for a 2” lift. Fancy billet vs tube is kinda silly. Why machine a...

Always lots of opinions here. I am going to echo this. For your use case the Bronco is already a perfect platform and doesn’t need much. The only thing I would add is try to keep lift at 2”. Helps keep CG down some. Will also help with alignment. 3” lift is starting to be difficult for OEM UCAs.

What are extended and compressed lengths of these, front and rear? What spring rates, front and rear?

Rotate every 1/2 mile and choose any random ass pattern you can come up with after a twelve pack. Tire wear will be guaranteed to be perfectly even and consistent. No fun on longer trips, except the 12 pack part.

It’s not just you. He is angry with the whole world.

I got some of these to replace stock nonSAS wheels, greatly reducing my build credibility. No power tools and take your time with the rings. All will be good. I have not converted them to beadlocks yet but will at some point. @SierraBronco runs them as beadlocks and has had good success...

I am sure you could see some interesting trends just measuring surface temps. Agree that this all seems very silly. It would be hard to convince me this is an issue. I am not really a tire guy but simply static equilibrium dictates the contact patch size, given the air pressure and load...

@kodiakisland. Curious what your thoughts are on this?

Don’t put bits and pieces from the tires into your shocks. They tend to get stuck in the valving holes and cause improper compression. For some strange reasons the rubber particles seem to move more freely during rebound. Interesting phenomenon to say the least.

This thread reminds me… I was going to make some brackets to drop the steering rack instead of putting in a hoss 3.0 rack. Those tierod angles at full droop are getting big.

Diff Rise is the new diff drop. Skip UFDU, mount shinny aluminum M190 on the hood. Not just correcting geometry but improving it. How do you connect CVs to wheels you ask? Just have turn offroad do it. If they can make the ultimate bolt-on portals without any negatives they can do this. Inverted...

Not really. Both our plots achieve the same level of understanding by the viewer. Just to be clear. There is a general acceptance that a diff drop corrects geometry back to OEM. This is not true. That is the reason for the original posts and plots. There is a nuance that those who are...

A small diff drop (1”) keeps plunge in check (<10 mm) and is no concern. It will reduce CV angles across the board, both at droop and ride height. This is real not koolaid.

Have you ever seen Chevy chase griswold Christmas? Not enough lights IMO.

Minivan CG in for-aft direction for oem sas is 51.6” behind front axle and 64.5” in front of rear axle. I have put Jack stands very near your location in pics.