Dipstick Pic?

[North7]

Exactly! I would wager that the majority of folks in this forum who have taken delivery of a 2.7 Bronco and who let it sit overnight on a level surface and who then check their oil will have a high reading on the stick. That means either the factory dipstick is wrong, which is unlikely (because the block is identical between a F150 and a Bronco so the height between the oil surface and the rotating components should be the same) OR that the 7 quart capacity for an oil change is wrong. Dear Ford...which one is it??? I reached out to them in this forum, and they redirected my to my dealer. My dealer hasn't even called me back about my additional 20,000 Fordpass points that all of us with early reservations were granted (even though Ford told me that my points are available). When I did get through to service, the oil level answer changed depending on who picked up the phone. Does any dealer or someone affiliated with Ford have the ability to loop in a Ford engineer? I know dealers have a way to submit an engineering inquiry...

I'm sure you have discovered a hidden feature of the 2.7 that has until now been unknown. Ford engineers documented the capacity at 6 quarts. No car salesmen turned service advisor or wrench jockey will know more that the Engineers at Ford who documented it, for multiple vehicles across Ford's line up. (Yes, as a fellow engineer, I've seen plenty of engineers latch on to an issue and not let it go. Perhaps you work somewhere like Aerojet Rocketdyne in the Thousand Oaks area )

Ford 2.7 oil capacity

Oil doesn’t appear correctly on the dipstick

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[MrJoe]

Does the filter have a check valve? Maybe the oil is draining out of the filter? Pretty sure oil capacity includes oil in the filter. Just a thought.

 

[flip]

Ah ha! So it isn't just me...are you going to have any removed or just drive it? I don't like the idea of my dipstick letting me down...

This is from the factory so when we change I'll have them put 6 in and see where it falls after a few days of driving.

 

[flip]

System Operation

Oil Flow

Item	Description
Yellow	High pressure oil
Orange	Constant high pressure feedback (55 psi)
Purple	Low pressure (25 psi) control
Blue	Oil return low pressure

Lubrication System

Continuous Variable Displacement Oil Pump

The variable displacement oil pump is designed to have the ability to change its running displacement upon command. Working together with a pressure regulation proportional solenoid valve, it can vary its displacement to produce the required oil pressure without wasting energy through bypassed oil flow or excessively high oil pressure. Therefore, its power consumption is reduced for a better fuel economy, comparing to a fixed displacement oil pump.

The oil pressure in the control chamber is balanced by the force from the pump spring in a running pump. When a given duty cycle control signal is sent to the solenoid valve, it will command a given oil pressure. If the actual oil pressure is higher than the commanded oil pressure, the solenoid valve will supply more oil to the control chamber, produce more pressure in the chamber, push the spring and the eccentric ring down, and reduce its running displacement and the oil pressure till the pressure is at the commanded level. Or vice versa, if the actual oil pressure is lower than the commanded oil pressure, the solenoid valve will supply less oil to the control chamber or even vent the chamber, produce less pressure in the chamber, bring the spring and the eccentric ring up, and increase its running displacement and the oil pressure till the pressure is at the commanded level.

The required oil pressure, i.e. the commanded oil pressure, depends on the operation conditions of the engine. Therefore, the engine runs with oil pressure at its required level without waste in such a system in order to minimize its parasitic energy loss

Continuous Variable Displacement Oil Pump

Item	Description
1	Pump control chamber
2	Pump-Out
3	Oil filter and cooler adapter flow resistance
4	Oil gallery
5	Engine oil flow resistance
6	Solenoid valve
7	A port - connect to pump control chamber
8	T port - tank/vent port, vent to crankcase
9	P port - control pressure, connect to main oil gallery

Engine Oil Filter and Housing

Item	Description
1	Oil filter housing assembly (includes oil filter reservoir and stem)
2	Oil filter
3	Oil filter housing-to-engine front cover seals (requires 2, included with service filter)
4	Oil filter housing stem-to-oil reservoir drain port seal (included with service filter)

During oil filter removal and installation:

• The oil filter housing and stem must be inspected for damage including cracks or separation of the stem from the housing. If damaged, a new oil filter housing assembly must be installed.
• The 2 oil filter housing-to-engine front cover seals are included with the service filter and must be replaced to prevent oil leakage.
• The oil filter housing stem-to-oil reservoir drain port seal is included with the service filter and must be replaced. If this seal or filter housing stem is damaged or missing, the oil will flow through the reservoir drain port and a loss of engine oil pressure will occur.

 

[JohnnyBronco]

1. Advise the customer that oil level indicator readings must be taken every 320 km (200 mi) or weekly, using the revised marks as drawn. Remind the customer that the engine needs a minimum 15 minute drain back for an accurate reading and that the oil level indicator must be firmly seated in the tube prior to taking the reading.
2. When the subsequent indicator readings demonstrate a full liter (quart) has been used, record the vehicle mileage. The mileage driven should not be less than 4,800 km (3,000 mi). The drive cycle the vehicle has been operated under must be considered when making this calculation. It may be necessary to have the customer bring the vehicle in for a periodic oil level indicator reading to closely monitor oil usage.

So......if I found an old fashioned gas jockey who checked all fluids while filling your tank and washing g windshield ("trust your car to the man who wears the Texaco star") you would have to sit at the pump at least 15 minutes before driving away? Might as well buy an electric vehicle.

THIS is why my wife's BMW X4 and the 535 before it do NOT have dipsticks. Thus oil refill based solely on instructions as to capacity. Of course they also have a sensor to tell you when to add exactly one quart.

Two things come to mind.

1. If you are removing less than what went in the vehicle is burning oil. Hondas were always known to lose a quart per 1000 miles.

2. If you are removing more oil than what went in you found a Jed Clampett oil well and will be buying a house in Beverly...Hills that is, movie stars, etc....OR you are leaking some other fluid into the pan and should have the oil tested for coolant or transmission fluid

 

[Stilbukn]

I was always told to never take dipstick pics and send them over the internet.

I was thinking the same thing and scared to click the link.

 

[flip]

So......if I found an old fashioned gas jockey who checked all fluids while filling your tank and washing g windshield ("trust your car to the man who wears the Texaco star") you would have to sit at the pump at least 15 minutes before driving away? Might as well buy an electric vehicle.

THIS is why my wife's BMW X4 and the 535 before it do NOT have dipsticks. Thus oil refill based solely on instructions as to capacity. Of course they also have a sensor to tell you when to add exactly one quart.

Two things come to mind.

1. If you are removing less than what went in the vehicle is burning oil. Hondas were always known to lose a quart per 1000 miles.

2. If you are removing more oil than what went in you found a Jed Clampett oil well and will be buying a house in Beverly...Hills that is, movie stars, etc....OR you are leaking some other fluid into the pan and should have the oil tested for coolant or transmission fluid

If the WSM is correct the initial fill was 7.5qt. 1/2qt hanging around the top end, passages, turbo, etc would make sense. The problem is those that have put 7 back in and being way over the top mark. 6qt puts it in the correct range but conflicts with the "oil consumption" diagnostics in the manual and factory fill level as shown in my pic.

Is it at the top mark while running? How would you know since you don't check engine oil level while running. The 15 min check will allow for whatever drain back is expected and calculated. There's a very small margin for oil expansion from heat which appears to be taken into account by the run, let sit, check procedure.

Since I only have 3,100 on mine the assumption is there isn't any appreciable usage one would assume my indicator is correct and I should put 6 in, run, check and add until I get back to the same level as in my pic. I really need to put this out on our Ford message boards or try to get my field service engineer to try and find out for sure. If it's truly 7 on a regular service, the indicator marks do not agree with the oil consumption procedure.

 

[flip]

Here's our FCTP, 20 miles.

Sitting inside since last night, checked 3 different times. Same general area as mine which is right below the twist.

One would assume if the dots are correct, this is abt 1.5qt over (top dot 1qt over, bottom 1qt under).

 

[Lazerus]

Ford's engineering philosophy...

 

[broncorik]

My 2 cents, FWIW:

1. It seems the majority of folks who have a 2.7 with a factory oil fill who have waited at least 15 minutes (ideally 30) after shutting off their engine and who have checked their oil level have reported that their dipsticks read just about halfway up the twist (which is well above the max line...nearly a quart over). There are several outliers who indicate that their oil level is right on the full line, and I have no idea what is going on there...I suspect the level was checked too soon after shutting the engine off.

2. The oil filter assembly has a stem with an o-ring...the purpose of that assembly is to block the passage that drains back to the pan while the engine is running and to retain oil in the filter housing so that when the engine is started there is oil readily available to provide adequate lubrication. When the filter is changed, removing the housing opens the drain and the oil in the housing is able to go back in the pan. THAT is why the instructions indicate the need to remove the housing BEFORE changing your oil. Not doing so until after adding oil not only raises oil level but also adds dirty oil. Also, if the little pain in the ass o-ring or the stem is damaged, oil pressure will be adversely affected.

3. Something is most assuredly not accurate in the manual. It would appear that, because Ford filled the majority of our engines by exactly the same amount, that they either are going by an inaccurate capacity for a dry fill, or the dipsticks are wrong. I think it is a capacity issue, because the Bronco oil pan differs from the F150 pan. The best way to rule out dipstick accuracy is to have someone with a second gen 2.7 F150 measure their dipstick from the base of the handle to the top of the max line and share the results. Regardless of what the Bronco pan is "supposed" to hold, the distance from top of oil level to block should be the same for any second gen 2.7. Any takers?

 

[VelocityBronco]

I just changed my oil tonight in my 2.7. I can't say how much oil came out because my catch pan overflowed and SO much oil spilled into my garage floor... lesson learned there for sure.
Before the oil change, checking multiple times, oil level was OVER Max, into the twist area of the stick(seems common here).
Followed instructions for draining oil, other than spilling a ton of it, so stupid...and filled it with 6 quarts of oil. Let it sit for a few, started it and ran it for a few. Let it sit for a while and checked multiple times, and oil level is at the minimum oil level hole.
I will check again in the morning, but it looks like it's going to take 7 quarts to get it to the full mark.
Edit: I added a picture of my dipstick...part number that is.

 

[da_jokker]

I just changed my oil tonight in my 2.7. I can't say how much oil came out because my catch pan overflowed and SO much oil spilled into my garage floor... lesson learned there for sure.
Before the oil change, checking multiple times, oil level was OVER Max, into the twist area of the stick(seems common here).
Followed instructions for draining oil, other than spilling a ton of it, so stupid...and filled it with 6 quarts of oil. Let it sit for a few, started it and ran it for a few. Let it sit for a while and checked multiple times, and oil level is at the minimum oil level hole.
I will check again in the morning, but it looks like it's going to take 7 quarts to get it to the full mark.
Edit: I added a picture of my dipstick...part number that is.

Just had to rescan this thread. So nobody else has posted their dipstick part number.

If yours truly take 7 quart to get to the full line (but not over), this will set the standard to possibly solving this.

Once you've added your additional quart can you take a pic of the level hash on the stick.

 

[VelocityBronco]

Just had to rescan this thread. So nobody else has posted their dipstick part number.

If yours truly take 7 quart to get to the full line (but not over), this will set the standard to possibly solving this.

Once you've added your additional quart can you take a pic of the level hash on the stick.

Sooo....I checked my oil level this morning, and now the oil is at the top of the hatched area, so its "Full"...I am so confused. I will check it again later today after I have driven it and see where it ends up, but I am tempted to just put the 7 quarts in that the manual stats and call it a day. An oil change should not cause this much stress.

 

[da_jokker]

Sooo....I checked my oil level this morning, and now the oil is at the top of the hatched area, so its "Full"...I am so confused. I will check it again later today after I have driven it and see where it ends up, but I am tempted to just put the 7 quarts in that the manual stats and call it a day. An oil change should not cause this much stress.

Lol..no doubt. So how long did you let it sit the first time and only got to the bottom of the MIN?

Those fast lane oil changes are going to have their handfuls with the Bronco if you have to let it sit overnight to check the oil.

 

[VelocityBronco]

Lol..no doubt. So how long did you let it sit the first time and only got to the bottom of the MIN?

Those fast lane oil changes are going to have their handfuls with the Bronco if you have to let it sit overnight to check the oil.

I checked it about 15 minutes after adding in the 6 quarts and letting it run for a few minutes as well. This is SOP for an oil change.

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