What Did You Do To Your Bronco Raptor Today? 🔧 🧰 🪛

[Seven714]

wow that looks great!!

Oh and this B pillar cover

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[swamp2]

S&B Intake:

Of course only for those trips to Mexico and Utah...

ZFG claims this is really needed when tuning aggressively and can uncork like 30 hp.

Install fairly straight forward but a few minor "nits":

1. The plastic "rivets" that connect the silicone intake shroud to the Air box are unlike any push/quick connects I've ever used. They interlock with identical pieces from the top and bottom.
2. Missing one of the push in fasteners for the silicone intake shroud.
3. Fitment at the main tube crossing over the engine at the vibration reduction mount seems misaligned (i.e. system just won't align properly here)
4. Resulting fitment of the front silicone intake shroud will not fit low enough so the shroud is flush with the plastic trim in that spot.

S&B has been fantastic about answering a couple support calls and helping to resolve.

Intake noise is more and more better. I'm not going to bother dynoing...

 

[Breptar]

S&B Intake:

Of course only for those trips to Mexico and Utah...

ZFG claims this is really needed when tuning aggressively and can uncork like 30 hp.

Install fairly straight forward but a few minor "nits":

1. The plastic "rivets" that connect the silicone intake shroud to the Air box are unlike any push/quick connects I've ever used. They interlock with identical pieces from the top and bottom.
2. Missing one of the push in fasteners for the silicone intake shroud.
3. Fitment at the main tube crossing over the engine at the vibration reduction mount seems misaligned (i.e. system just won't align properly here)
4. Resulting fitment of the front silicone intake shroud will not fit low enough so the shroud is flush with the plastic trim in that spot.

S&B has been fantastic about answering a couple support calls and helping to resolve.

Intake noise is more and more better. I'm not going to bother dynoing...

Good luck with the S&B lid when you’re wheeling hard. Majority of the people know with that intake have issues with the intake lid popping off while wheeling. I went with the k&n for the reason that the acrylic window takes vacations in the engine bay.

 

[swamp2]

Good luck with the S&B lid when you’re wheeling hard. Majority of the people know with that intake have issues with the intake lid popping off while wheeling. I went with the k&n for the reason that the acrylic window takes vacations in the engine bay.

I heard some reports. Fingers crossed...

 

[vrtical]

Playing in the dirt at #HolleyFest

 

[swamp2]

Adams Driveshaft - 1350

The 1350 is the heavier duty model.

After needing a 4th factory driveshaft over 44k miles and despite being under warranty, I threw in the towel and upgraded. Nice double cardan style and beefy.

Had some back and forth with and got the wrong front yoke, but Adams were on it and got the correct one out quickly. Specs: Front (T-case) yoke 1 3/8" x 32 tooth (NOT 34), rear (diff) 1 3/8" x 28 tooth. Length face to face is 51”. John at Adams was super helpful and fast!

You will need a few special tools/materials including:

• 1/2 impact wrench (or VERY long breaker bar)
• Multiple 1/2 extensions (to get impact through frame hoop and on front TC yoke nut)
• 3 jaw gear puller or yoke puller (i got a free rental from O'Reily)
• 12 point, 12mm closed end wrench for front yoke bolts. These are actually a "triple square" head (not a triple square socket) but you cannot fit a socket and ratchet on them due to space constraints. I ended up guessing the torque (via comparison with a bench set up) with a breaker bar on the closed end wrench. Not ideal but zero stripping. Big bonus for who ever figures out how to actually properly torque these bolts.
• 1 1/4" impact socket for front and rear yoke nuts (I believe a 32 mm will fit, but it's actually a true imperial size, which I found very odd).
• Socket swivels
• RTV gasket making sealer
• Loctite 243 Medium Strength (online Jeep instructions note red Loctite but that's a firm no-go for me).

Other details:

• 160 ft lb on the FRONT Tcase yoke nut only. And its not sensitive/critical, within 10% or even 20% will be fine.
• Rear diff yoke pinion nut torque sets the pinion bearing preload against the (already crushed) crush sleeve. It's a little bit tricky as you torque just until all wobble in the pinion/yoke assembly goes away. It is A LOT of torque, like 300-400 ft lb. Way more than the front nut. If you under OR over do it you can trash your pinion bearings or even ring and pinion.
• As noted in the online Jeep instructions - DO NOT OVER TORQUE the rear U-bolt nuts. 1/4 turn past flattening the lock washers.

Jeep instructions (very close to Bronco/Bronco Raptor).

I'm confident this thing will go 100s of thousands of miles even with my aggressive tune.

 

[Ninjak]

Added some more CF to the BRaptor to go with the CF package it came with.

 

[JohnGalt]

Adams Driveshaft - 1350

The 1350 is the heavier duty model.

After needing a 4th factory driveshaft over 44k miles and despite being under warranty, I threw in the towel and upgraded. Nice double cardan style and beefy.

Had some back and forth with and got the wrong front yoke, but Adams were on it and got the correct one out quickly. Specs: Front (T-case) yoke 1 3/8" x 32 tooth (NOT 34), rear (diff) 1 3/8" x 28 tooth. Length face to face is 51”. John at Adams was super helpful and fast!

You will need a few special tools/materials including:

• 1/2 impact wrench (or VERY long breaker bar)
• Multiple 1/2 extensions (to get impact through frame hoop and on front TC yoke nut)
• 3 jaw gear puller or yoke puller (i got a free rental from O'Reily)
• 12 point, 12mm closed end wrench for front yoke bolts. These are actually a "triple square" head (not a triple square socket) but you cannot fit a socket and ratchet on them due to space constraints. I ended up guessing the torque (via comparison with a bench set up) with a breaker bar on the closed end wrench. Not ideal but zero stripping. Big bonus for who ever figures out how to actually properly torque these bolts.
• 1 1/4" impact socket for front and rear yoke nuts (I believe a 32 mm will fit, but it's actually a true imperial size, which I found very odd).
• Socket swivels
• RTV gasket making sealer
• Loctite 243 Medium Strength (online Jeep instructions note red Loctite but that's a firm no-go for me).

Other details:

• 160 ft lb on the FRONT Tcase yoke nut only. And its not sensitive/critical, within 10% or even 20% will be fine.
• Rear diff yoke pinion nut torque sets the pinion bearing preload against the (already crushed) crush sleeve. It's a little bit tricky as you torque just until all wobble in the pinion/yoke assembly goes away. It is A LOT of torque, like 300-400 ft lb. Way more than the front nut. If you under OR over do it you can trash your pinion bearings or even ring and pinion.
• As noted in the online Jeep instructions - DO NOT OVER TORQUE the rear U-bolt nuts. 1/4 turn past flattening the lock washers.

Jeep instructions (very close to Bronco/Bronco Raptor).

I'm confident this thing will go 100s of thousands of miles even with my aggressive tune.

4th driveshaft? What’s been the point of failure(s)? thanks for the write up.

 

[stampede1]

Added some more CF to the BRaptor to go with the CF package it came with.

Added some more CF to the BRaptor to go with the CF package it came with.

I have been looking for CF that matches the OEM Braptor CF, but have not found any. Yours looks close but appears to be glossier than stock CF.

 

[swamp2]

4th driveshaft? What’s been the point of failure(s)? thanks for the write up.

Was about to install 4th, so original and 2 replacements. Gave it enough chances.

I drive my rig hard but definitely not a huge percentage of off road time overall and certainly not as hard as many others here on B6G.

The issue is documented here on the forum. A slowly worsening thunk/thump you feel in your rear right when stopping and getting to 0 mph and then again when taking off from 0.

It's most likely binding in the driveshaft slip joint. Also happens in other Fords, so for the F-150 there is a boot+grease+clamp kit to fix (likely extend not really fix).

 

[Ninjak]

I have been looking for CF that matches the OEM Braptor CF, but have not found any. Yours looks close but appears to be glossier than stock CF.

It is, but I did buy it this way for a reason. The LED light I have is a glossy CF, and you can see it more so than the Raptor stock CF. So I bought the Glossier CF to match it.

When I had my Badlands, I did CF, and it was an exact match for the BRaptor CF. I just decided not to go with it.(Also, it was not on sale ) It is this one.

This is the one I had before, which is a Matt CF.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4RXH7DJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

 

[HeliPilot]

Just a little cleanup of the factory diff cover. I got the idea from a member on the Broncoraptor forum.

 

[Ninjak]

I ordered a CP-E Intercooler for Ashoka. Grabbed it on their BF Four Corner Sale. Ended up being 175$ off.

Wanted an intercooler; I did not have to remove the bumper or the shutter system. Read some pretty good things about the CP-E, so I decided to pull the trigger. Once I get it on, I'll try to get some numbers with my setup.

 

[Haykayy]

PPF'd mine

 

[swamp2]

Just a little cleanup of the factory diff cover. I got the idea from a member on the Broncoraptor forum.

Looks good. Just rattle can?

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