Idk, this is really speaking to me.IMO, at bare minimum would be the edges or surround of the grille. Like what @broadicustomworks , among others, did with his. It really gives the OG look to the 6G.
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What did you do TO / WITH your Bronco today? 👨🏻🔧🧰🚿🛠
So I spent a lot of time on one of the 4Runner forums the last few years and this was always a hot topic over there. The trucks were sold with P-metric tires and there were people who swore that you needed an E-load if you were offroading in areas with lots of sharp rocks and other hazards that were prone to slicing tires. Conversely, you had a group that ran P-metrics offroad and insisted they never had a problem. I bought into the E-load craze and ran Falken AT3W in E on my 2016 4Runner and then Yokohama Geolander AT-X in E on my 2020.
In general, I didn't really mind the E-load tires but did tend to have balance problems (which may have been more a product of the 4Runner's inherent steering rack sensitivity to wheels being slightly out of balance). They definitely ran hard though and did not help my atrocious fuel economy. I decided to step back to a Goodyear Duratrac RT in XL load for the last year or so I owned my 4Runner and I honestly enjoyed driving the truck a hell of a lot more and started to question just how much the (supposedly) extra protection of the E-load really brought me offroad versus the compromises in ride quality, fuel economy, and unsprung weight. I also saved around $300 on the set from what I recall.
To me the inherent question is would an equivalent E-load tire (say a BFG KO2) survive in a stress situation that a C-load would not and how often do you really encounter this assuming you're picking good lines and trying to be aware of what you're doing offroad. It's a tricky question to answer, but if 95%+ (and hell, for many of us it is probably more like 98%+) of your miles are on pavement, does the maybe nominally higher statistcal probability of a sidewall cut offroad still make sense for what you are giving up perhaps on the road 95% of the time along with the extra unsprung weight of an E or even F load tire?
Probably no perfect answer, but so many pros and cons to this one.
Drilled new mounting holes in my tailgate molle panel (lower it) so it now fits correctly under the Ez 4x4 trunk lid.
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Not specifically today, but over the course of the last week or two.
I can’t say enough praise of Metaltech as a company, Mark as a businessman and owner, or the swing out bumper itself.
It’s all top-notch.
And easily the beefiest bumper I’ve ever seen.
I recommend snagging one while you can (only 5 left) at half price.
It’s a GOOD deal.
get the pull points also when you order the bumper, and the premade harness makes it easy for the brake light, camera, etc.
Of course, I had to add my custom touch. It needed some contrast:
I can’t say enough praise of Metaltech as a company, Mark as a businessman and owner, or the swing out bumper itself.
It’s all top-notch.
And easily the beefiest bumper I’ve ever seen.
I recommend snagging one while you can (only 5 left) at half price.
It’s a GOOD deal.
get the pull points also when you order the bumper, and the premade harness makes it easy for the brake light, camera, etc.
Of course, I had to add my custom touch. It needed some contrast:
I am old and have a LOT of experience on off roading and tires. I have posted this before.
Tire, pressure and wheel thoughts
It seems to me that there are a lot of questions on tires and wheels. I have never worked in a tire shop, but I have bought a lot of tires, wheeled off-road for over 20 years, belonged to a couple of Jeep clubs and have stayed at a Holiday Inn Express. Here are my thoughts, which are worth what you paid for them.
Wheel size; If you are driving a high performance sports car you want a large wheel for larger brakes and a shorter side wall on the tire (low profile) to give you quick response to steering input. (Very little sidewall flex)
If you are driving an off-road vehicle you want the opposite. A lot of side wall to soak up the irregularities in the trail, and to be able to air down without the wheel coming into contact with the tire tread. Since you also need brakes, the generally best wheel for this is 17 inches. Big enough for good brakes, but small enough for a lot of sidewall on 35”+ tires.
Tires; The size and tread pattern that will be best for you depends on what terrain you are going to be in. Knobby tires will big tread blocks and a lot of void areas are best for mud, as they can not only grip in the mud, but clean out quickly. Tires with small voids will turn into slicks in the mud, and therefore have little traction. Knobby tires can also work well if you are climbing a craggy rock face and need to grab on to the edges of rocks to get traction.
I do a lot of wheeling in Moab which has a lot of “slick rock”, which despite its name is basically sand paper on rock. So, the more rubber you put down (less voids) the greater the traction you will get.
Tread patterns are very personal, so use the one that fits your needs.
Tire size; Generally speaking, bigger is better. The downside to bigger is they are heavier, cost more and put more of a strain on vehicle components. If the tire is big, with a big tire patch, it will test other components, and the weakest link will break. Why is bigger better? The easiest way to understand this is to take it to the extreme. Think of a pebble rolling on cement and coming into contact with an expansion joint. It probably will get stuck and not be able to cross it. Now think of a 40” tire rolling on cement, when it reaches the expansion joint it won’t even slow down. So bigger tires can climb higher obstacles, give you more ground clearance, have a bigger sidewall to absorb shocks and bumps, and cross small “cracks” easily.
Tire Pressure; This is the most misunderstood area of tires. On road follow the vehicle manufacturer instructions. At speed low pressure tires will build heat quickly, and heat is the enemy of tires. Off-road is a different story. What does lower pressure do for you? One, more comfort. The sidewall can flex and absorb shocks better with less pressure. Take a tire inflated to the max and drop it a couple of feet, it will bounce back almost all the way up. Take a tire inflated to 10 psi and drop it, and it will hardly bounce. Two, wrap around obstacles for more grip. Three, increase the tire patch, which is the amount of the tire that is in contact with the ground. This accomplishes three things, one, lowers the pressure per square inch on the ground, which can keep you from sinking into things like sand. Two, gives you more rubber on the ground to increase the chance of getting some traction when climbing an obstacle. Three, lessons the chance of a tire puncture. Again, take it to the extreme. Think of a balloon. If it has hardly any air in it, you can push a pin in quite a way before it will pop. Inflate it to the max and the pin will pop it easily.
So, how low? It depends on several things. First what load range are your tires? C range will have the most flexible sidewalls, and as you go up the alphabet the sidewalls get stiffer. I have bead locks on my Jeep with 39” C range tires. However, the Jeep weighs 6,200 pounds, so if I go much below 10 psi and come down a steep grade where all the weight is on the front the tires will wrinkle up and get too close to the wheel. When I had load range E tires on it, I could go down to 4 psi before they would wrinkle too much. I like C range as it allows the tires to conform to the rocks and get a good grip.
Second what are you going to do? A gravel road will feel better if you drop about 10 pounds from street pressure. For medium trails 18-20 psi can work well. For more serious trails I go down to about 12.
Everyone always worries about blowing a bead. First, if you just had your tires remounted, wait a couple of days. That way the stuff they put on the bead to set them, will have totally dried. Low pressure too quickly may allow the tire to rotate on the rim and change the balance. Second if you are really low 8 – 12 psi, don’t do donuts or try to turn a stuck tire when it is wedged in a rock crevice. With non-bead lock wheels, I have never heard of someone blowing a bead when they had 12+ pounds of air in the tires. You CAN do it, but you will have to work at it. Even with bead locks, most bead locks only work on the outside of the wheel, it can be possible (although unlikely) to blow the inside of the wheel.
To conclude, run the pressure you are comfortable with. Experiment and try different pressures. Buy a good quality HD air compressor. You will pay more for it, but only once. A cheap one you will cuss out every time you use it. The biggest mistake I see on the trails is that most tires have too much air in them. If you are spinning your tires, they may be over inflated.
Tire, pressure and wheel thoughts
It seems to me that there are a lot of questions on tires and wheels. I have never worked in a tire shop, but I have bought a lot of tires, wheeled off-road for over 20 years, belonged to a couple of Jeep clubs and have stayed at a Holiday Inn Express. Here are my thoughts, which are worth what you paid for them.
Wheel size; If you are driving a high performance sports car you want a large wheel for larger brakes and a shorter side wall on the tire (low profile) to give you quick response to steering input. (Very little sidewall flex)
If you are driving an off-road vehicle you want the opposite. A lot of side wall to soak up the irregularities in the trail, and to be able to air down without the wheel coming into contact with the tire tread. Since you also need brakes, the generally best wheel for this is 17 inches. Big enough for good brakes, but small enough for a lot of sidewall on 35”+ tires.
Tires; The size and tread pattern that will be best for you depends on what terrain you are going to be in. Knobby tires will big tread blocks and a lot of void areas are best for mud, as they can not only grip in the mud, but clean out quickly. Tires with small voids will turn into slicks in the mud, and therefore have little traction. Knobby tires can also work well if you are climbing a craggy rock face and need to grab on to the edges of rocks to get traction.
I do a lot of wheeling in Moab which has a lot of “slick rock”, which despite its name is basically sand paper on rock. So, the more rubber you put down (less voids) the greater the traction you will get.
Tread patterns are very personal, so use the one that fits your needs.
Tire size; Generally speaking, bigger is better. The downside to bigger is they are heavier, cost more and put more of a strain on vehicle components. If the tire is big, with a big tire patch, it will test other components, and the weakest link will break. Why is bigger better? The easiest way to understand this is to take it to the extreme. Think of a pebble rolling on cement and coming into contact with an expansion joint. It probably will get stuck and not be able to cross it. Now think of a 40” tire rolling on cement, when it reaches the expansion joint it won’t even slow down. So bigger tires can climb higher obstacles, give you more ground clearance, have a bigger sidewall to absorb shocks and bumps, and cross small “cracks” easily.
Tire Pressure; This is the most misunderstood area of tires. On road follow the vehicle manufacturer instructions. At speed low pressure tires will build heat quickly, and heat is the enemy of tires. Off-road is a different story. What does lower pressure do for you? One, more comfort. The sidewall can flex and absorb shocks better with less pressure. Take a tire inflated to the max and drop it a couple of feet, it will bounce back almost all the way up. Take a tire inflated to 10 psi and drop it, and it will hardly bounce. Two, wrap around obstacles for more grip. Three, increase the tire patch, which is the amount of the tire that is in contact with the ground. This accomplishes three things, one, lowers the pressure per square inch on the ground, which can keep you from sinking into things like sand. Two, gives you more rubber on the ground to increase the chance of getting some traction when climbing an obstacle. Three, lessons the chance of a tire puncture. Again, take it to the extreme. Think of a balloon. If it has hardly any air in it, you can push a pin in quite a way before it will pop. Inflate it to the max and the pin will pop it easily.
So, how low? It depends on several things. First what load range are your tires? C range will have the most flexible sidewalls, and as you go up the alphabet the sidewalls get stiffer. I have bead locks on my Jeep with 39” C range tires. However, the Jeep weighs 6,200 pounds, so if I go much below 10 psi and come down a steep grade where all the weight is on the front the tires will wrinkle up and get too close to the wheel. When I had load range E tires on it, I could go down to 4 psi before they would wrinkle too much. I like C range as it allows the tires to conform to the rocks and get a good grip.
Second what are you going to do? A gravel road will feel better if you drop about 10 pounds from street pressure. For medium trails 18-20 psi can work well. For more serious trails I go down to about 12.
Everyone always worries about blowing a bead. First, if you just had your tires remounted, wait a couple of days. That way the stuff they put on the bead to set them, will have totally dried. Low pressure too quickly may allow the tire to rotate on the rim and change the balance. Second if you are really low 8 – 12 psi, don’t do donuts or try to turn a stuck tire when it is wedged in a rock crevice. With non-bead lock wheels, I have never heard of someone blowing a bead when they had 12+ pounds of air in the tires. You CAN do it, but you will have to work at it. Even with bead locks, most bead locks only work on the outside of the wheel, it can be possible (although unlikely) to blow the inside of the wheel.
To conclude, run the pressure you are comfortable with. Experiment and try different pressures. Buy a good quality HD air compressor. You will pay more for it, but only once. A cheap one you will cuss out every time you use it. The biggest mistake I see on the trails is that most tires have too much air in them. If you are spinning your tires, they may be over inflated.
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- Darryl
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I did the rear seat recline mod today. I cut 1/2 inch off of the 4 tabs and the rear seat backs are only 3/8 inch away from the rear cargo panel indentations.
Yes they lock into place. so much better.
see https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-the-rear-seats-recline-further.110506/page-3
Yes they lock into place. so much better.
see https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-the-rear-seats-recline-further.110506/page-3
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- F250, F350, F600
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- Heritage
Little bit of fishing this evening, little early yet but good to get out
Disconnected the battery for a few hours to reset the TCM. The Bronco always had rough shifts especially in the lower gears (even with the protune). This appears to have mostly resolved it. It feels much smoother driving it after.
Took the pup for a ride with the top off 
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Just installed a RC Molle rack about 30min ago. Amazon special!
now to find Molle attachments holders for various stuff. That being said, anyone know the best place to look for various attachments
Everything I see is for vest and bags. Not racks
thanks
now to find Molle attachments holders for various stuff. That being said, anyone know the best place to look for various attachments
Everything I see is for vest and bags. Not racks
thanks
Last edited:
Not specifically today, but over the course of the last week or two.
I can’t say enough praise of Metaltech as a company, Mark as a businessman and owner, or the swing out bumper itself.
It’s all top-notch.
And easily the beefiest bumper I’ve ever seen.
I recommend snagging one while you can (only 5 left) at half price.
It’s a GOOD deal.
get the pull points also when you order the bumper, and the premade harness makes it easy for the brake light, camera, etc.
Of course, I had to add my custom touch. It needed some contrast:
What's the weight on this? And all in, what was the cost, I'm assuming the 50% off is just the bumper and not all the extras , lights, tow hooks, parking censors, wire harness, powder coating...
- First Name
- Brandon
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- 242
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- Covington, Ky
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- 2025 Base 4-Door
- Your Bronco Model
- Base
Took a cruise with the top all the way down for the first time tonight after my fiancee’s baptism! Learned some good things during…
1.) When the top is down, where a hat! Our hair was a tangled mess when we got home and brushing it was not fun.
She said next time she will wear a braid… lol
2.) Taking the top all the way down is super easy and doesn’t take much time at all.
3.) This thing is an absolute blast to drive! The 2.3 I4 is a beast of an engine and sounds/feels awesome in the Bronco.
4.) Last but not least, couldn’t be happier with the upgrade from the Bronco Sport.
I look forward to more fun times with this truck!
1.) When the top is down, where a hat! Our hair was a tangled mess when we got home and brushing it was not fun.
She said next time she will wear a braid… lol2.) Taking the top all the way down is super easy and doesn’t take much time at all.
3.) This thing is an absolute blast to drive! The 2.3 I4 is a beast of an engine and sounds/feels awesome in the Bronco.
4.) Last but not least, couldn’t be happier with the upgrade from the Bronco Sport.
I look forward to more fun times with this truck!
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- Dave
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- Your Bronco Model
- Badlands
Idk, it’s heavy.
By the time I took off the heavy-ish TOR reinforcement and the stock metal bumper I’d guess I’m still heavy by 50 lbs with the new setup.
All in I’m at about $2100.
The sale does include the add-ons.
I ordered it bare, rounded a few edges a bit with my grinder and a flap disc, Epoxy primed and Raptor-lined it myself.
I ordered:
The bumper, swing out, Jerry can holder, flush fit lights, pull points cerakoted red, and the plug-n-play harness.
I installed a best top soft top for a 4 door 2023 badlands that opens up to the back seats and I can keep the back shell on. I love it.
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