CarbonSteel's 2023 Wildtrak Build + Maintenance Journal (Filters, Fluids, Oil Changes Etc)

[Nc211]

Thank you

You do not have to replace the plastic plug each time (only when it begins weeping quite a bit). However, it is very messy when pulling it which is why you see people buying a Ronin or UPR plug which allows for a controlled drain.

The comment about 75W-110 does not relate to the owners manual, but to API where in 2005 they split the old 75W-90 viscosity range nearly in half placing the lower range into 75W-90 and created a new viscosity of 75W-110 for the upper (thicker) range.

Dana specifies 75W-140 for all Mxxx axles, but OEMs such as Ford and Jeep typically reduce that viscosity for MPG (CAFE credits). The closest aftermarket viscosity would be 75W-90 to what Ford states in the owners manual.

I want more protection than what it provides so I use 75W-110 in the front (because I had it) and 75W-140 in the rear. Eventually, I will use 75W-140 in both.

Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any questions.

Thank you CarbonSteel! It does help indeed! I went by my dealership today as well for a filter and oil pan drain plug (backup just in case) and asked the parts guy about it too. He said 75W-140 appears to be a common fluid to use as well. Said he could not endorse it because if it caused problems then it would likely void the warranty on the effected parts, but also kind of gave the wink-wink, nudge-nudge as well.

Changing the oil (first time, at 3k miles now) over to Mobil 1 5W-30, and the front/rear diff's to the Mobile 1 75W-140 tomorrow. It's going to be nice getting the old tools back out again! Been probably 10 years since I "wrenched" on a car!

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[Razorback]

All wrapped up earlier today before that Texas sun started melting everything. Thanks @CarbonSteel for all the work you did in posting the proper bolts and studs. The only slight PITA was getting that first bolt going while holding the gasket and cover together. I'll probably get the additional magnetic plugs at the next change. You can tell from the original plug that it was way over due. A lot of gunk on that fill plug. Can't imagine what the drain plug would have looked like if it originally came with one.

 

[Nc211]

Question - what tool do I need to get the drain/fill plugs out? I have torqs, Allen’s, hex, but square and can’t seem to find any at Home Depot or Lowe’s.. thank you!!

 

[Arokcrwlr]

3/8 ratchet fits nicely...

 

[CarbonSteel]

3/8 ratchet fits nicely...

This with a 3/8" extension should do the trick.

 

[Nc211]

Sorry, I typed that in Home Depot. Not a lot of detail!

What I meant to ask - the actual drain and/or fill plugs of the differentials. Mine require a tool like and Allen Wrench, except a 4-sided one only and not a hex. I have all of the wrenches and extensions to last the rest of my life, just missing whatever that bit is for them to get them out of the differential housing and can’t think what they’re called. Square head??

 

[Lak34ers]

Sorry, I typed that in Home Depot. Not a lot of detail!

What I meant to ask - the actual drain and/or fill plugs of the differentials. Mine require a tool like and Allen Wrench, except a 4-sided one only and not a hex. I have all of the wrenches and extensions to last the rest of my life, just missing whatever that bit is for them to get them out of the differential housing and can’t think what they’re called. Square head??

3/8 extension. End is square and fits. No bits or attachments

 

[Nc211]

Ahh!!!Gotcha!! Many thanks!!!

 

[Nc211]

Decided to just do the upgrade to the Ford performance cover instead. Got an email for 20% off accessories, and figured for slightly less-than $200, having the drain plug for the future was a no-brainer. Punting this to when it arrives!

 

[Nc211]

What a difference the motor oil made alone! I’m at 3k miles and replaced the oil for the first time with Mobile 1 5w30. 6.5 quarts because I can’t tell exactly how much it takes. The manual says 6 quarts, the IAG video on YouTube says 7. Looks fine on the dipstick. Factory oil filter from the dealership. I like to change my own because I like to sacrifice about a quart of fresh oil to flush out the pan too after the old has fully drained out. Call it my OCD..

Wow, what a difference in smoothness and quietness of the engine after the change! I am actually shocked a bit by it, and my mind went back to Carbon’s comments on not being a fan of the factory oil.

 

[Nc211]

Got the front diff (75w-140 Mobile1) and did the transfer case with Valvoline full synthetic ATF. Front diff magnet was caked pretty good, and haven’t even used 4x4 yet at 3k miles. Fluid looked ok though.

But what surprised me was how LITTLE drained out of the transfer case. At best maybe 3/4 of a quart. Manual calls for 1.3 quarts, which is about what I put in at 1.5 until it started flowing out of the fill plug. Very glad to have done this today! I think an oops from the factory on the fill??

Rear diff plate arrived today, but ran out of steam to get to it. It came with new screws and a gasket. Am I using those screws and gasket? I’m a little confused if I am to reuse the existing gasket and if the screw that came with it are ok?

My front diff seemed different from Carbon’s video. The drain and fill plugs are on opposite sides of the differential.

 

[Nc211]

Front diff plug. 3k miles.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Got the front diff (75w-140 Mobile1) and did the transfer case with Valvoline full synthetic ATF. Front diff magnet was caked pretty good, and haven’t even used 4x4 yet at 3k miles. Fluid looked ok though.

But what surprised me was how LITTLE drained out of the transfer case. At best maybe 3/4 of a quart. Manual calls for 1.3 quarts, which is about what I put in at 1.5 until it started flowing out of the fill plug. Very glad to have done this today! I think an oops from the factory on the fill??

Rear diff plate arrived today, but ran out of steam to get to it. It came with new screws and a gasket. Am I using those screws and gasket? I’m a little confused if I am to reuse the existing gasket and if the screw that came with it are ok?

My front diff seemed different from Carbon’s video. The drain and fill plugs are on opposite sides of the differential.

I bought new bolts and studs because the ones that come with the cover will be too short with the OEM rubber gasket.

You can use the fiber composite gasket that came with the cover, but I would add a bit of black RTV to the gasket. RTV is not needed with the OEM gasket.

 

[redone17]

I bought new bolts and studs because the ones that come with the cover will be too short with the OEM rubber gasket.

You can use the fiber composite gasket that came with the cover, but I would add a bit of black RTV to the gasket. RTV is not needed with the OEM gasket.

The gasket thickness is THAT different? Figured with compression they’d be similar. Just got the FP cover for our Ranger. About to replace all fluids + PPE transmission pan and rear diff cover.

 

[CarbonSteel]

The gasket thickness is THAT different? Figured with compression they’d be similar. Just got the FP cover for our Ranger. About to replace all fluids + PPE transmission pan and rear diff cover.

Gasket + FP cover flange thickness. Note the OEM cover is just stamped steel and is between 1/16" and 3/32" thick. The FP cover is much thicker and when combined with the thickness of the OEM gasket, IMHO 20MM bolts are too short, so I went 25MM.

For clarity, the factory bolts will grab thread, but because the face of the housing threaded bosses are back beveled, you are not catching much.

Will it tighten and not leak--yes. Will it withstand a hit from a rock or drop-off...highly doubtful.

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