[How-To] Subwoofer Upgrade - Replacing/Upgrading the Factory Sub

[mpeugeot]

What's your sub setup again?

Kicker 46HS10 sub-woofer

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[Juventus]

Hi @RagnarKon Your videos are awesome and super helpful. I have a 2023 sub delete. I added the ford fusion amp and kicker sub. Would I just change the settings in forscan to the following.
727-01-01
XXXX-X4XX-XXXX
XXXX-X6XX-XXXX

So I just change the 4 to a 6 and it activates the sub correct?

I upgraded all the speakers to hertz but didn't change the factory sizes.

You talk about the eq. Do I need to turn this off for the sub to work correctly?

727-01-02
This is current setting correct
01XX-XXXX-XXXX
Doesit need to be
00XX-XXXX-XXXX

 

[ILoveToDrive]

Here’s the Hex framework. You are correct on the 4 to a 6. If you want to leave everything else the same….that’s it, and changing the EQ setting to 00.
Depending on how your speakers sound, you can play with the speaker, vs speaker/tweeter settings as well.


EQ Settings - ACM 727-01-02

• xxYY-xxxx-xxxx
  • 00 = EQ Off
  • 01 = EQ On (High-pass filter on the rear pods)

Speaker Configuration Settings - ACM 727-01-01

• xxYx-xxxx-xxxx - Driver Front Kick Panel/Dash Speakers
  • 0 - Speaker
  • 1 - Tweeter
  • 2 - Speaker & Tweeter
  • 3 - No Speaker (ACM disable)
• xxxY-xxxx-xxxx - Passenger Front Kick Panel/Dash Speakers
  • 3 - Speaker
  • 7 - Tweeter
  • B - Speaker & Tweeter
  • F - No Speaker
• xxxx-Yxxx-xxxx - Passenger Rear Pod Speaker
  • 0 - Speaker
  • 1 - Tweeter
  • 2 - Speaker & Tweeter
  • 3 - No Speaker
• xxxx-xYxx-xxxx - Driver Rear Pod Speaker & Subwoofer
  • 0 - Speaker
  • 2 - Speaker & Sub
  • 4 - Tweeter
  • 6 - Tweeter & Sub
  • 8 - Speaker & Tweeter
  • A - Speaker, Tweeter, & Sub
  • C - No speaker
  • E - Sub only

 

[Juventus]

Here’s the Hex framework. You are correct on the 4 to a 6. If you want to leave everything else the same….that’s it, and changing the EQ setting to 00.
Depending on how your speakers sound, you can play with the speaker, vs speaker/tweeter settings as well.


EQ Settings - ACM 727-01-02

• xxYY-xxxx-xxxx
  • 00 = EQ Off
  • 01 = EQ On (High-pass filter on the rear pods)

Speaker Configuration Settings - ACM 727-01-01

• xxYx-xxxx-xxxx - Driver Front Kick Panel/Dash Speakers
  • 0 - Speaker
  • 1 - Tweeter
  • 2 - Speaker & Tweeter
  • 3 - No Speaker (ACM disable)
• xxxY-xxxx-xxxx - Passenger Front Kick Panel/Dash Speakers
  • 3 - Speaker
  • 7 - Tweeter
  • B - Speaker & Tweeter
  • F - No Speaker
• xxxx-Yxxx-xxxx - Passenger Rear Pod Speaker
  • 0 - Speaker
  • 1 - Tweeter
  • 2 - Speaker & Tweeter
  • 3 - No Speaker
• xxxx-xYxx-xxxx - Driver Rear Pod Speaker & Subwoofer
  • 0 - Speaker
  • 2 - Speaker & Sub
  • 4 - Tweeter
  • 6 - Tweeter & Sub
  • 8 - Speaker & Tweeter
  • A - Speaker, Tweeter, & Sub
  • C - No speaker
  • E - Sub only

Thanks for the help. Do you know if turning the EQ off sounds better with the fusion amp I saw ragnarkon had a kicked amp which is why he turned off the EQ.

 

[Juventus]

It sounds better with it off on my fusion amp and 6.75” kicker sub.

Thanks @Msell71 I will turn it off.

 

[RagnarKon]

Thanks for the help. Do you know if turning the EQ off sounds better with the fusion amp I saw ragnarkon had a kicked amp which is why he turned off the EQ.

On the base audio system, the EQ primarily impacts the rear pod speakers.

Doesn't do a whole lot for the subwoofer—you can always turn it off and see if you like it. But if you replace/upgrade the rear pods it's definitely worth it.

 

[ILoveToDrive]

It sounds better with it off on my fusion amp and 6.75” kicker sub.

I found the same

 

[Juventus]

Thank you for everyone's help. This forum is the best got the sub up and working sounds amazing!!!!

 

[Cdonnell]

I’m looking for some help with my amp and sub install. I have a 23 Badlands with the sub delete. I got a ton of advice from this forum so thanks for that first of all! I purchased the OEM Fusion amp and the Kicker 6.75 4ohm Sub. I hooked up the new parts exactly like the dummy was hooked up, using the factory harnesses. I made the forscan update from 4 to 6. the problem- I’m still not getting any bass out of the sub, it’s as if there is no power to the amp. I double checked the wiring and the forscan. I have completed other forscan updates without issue. Could it be the amp is bad? Is the factory harness missing power? I’m stumped.

 

[RagnarKon]

I’m looking for some help with my amp and sub install. I have a 23 Badlands with the sub delete. I got a ton of advice from this forum so thanks for that first of all! I purchased the OEM Fusion amp and the Kicker 6.75 4ohm Sub. I hooked up the new parts exactly like the dummy was hooked up, using the factory harnesses. I made the forscan update from 4 to 6. the problem- I’m still not getting any bass out of the sub, it’s as if there is no power to the amp. I double checked the wiring and the forscan. I have completed other forscan updates without issue. Could it be the amp is bad? Is the factory harness missing power? I’m stumped.

You would have to troubleshoot some more to know what's happening.

Do you have a multimeter?? If so... check to see if power is being delivered to the amp, and the sub-enable signal is being sent by the ACM.

 

[ILoveToDrive]

A multi-meter will answer the obvious question…is the power source to the amp live? If it is, that means the Forscan setting did it’s thing. Bad amp is certainly a possibility.
The multimeter will also let you determine if a signal is going from the amp to the sub.

 

[eduard4us]

Yup! Keep in mind it is a line-level input, not speaker-level. Pretty sure all of Kicker's amps support line-level, but not sure about that.

The remote turn-on like should also work, although admittedly I haven't tried it specifically on the Bronco.

The power wire you'll have to wire from the battery unless you are doing a ~200 watt amplifier or less.

You are correct for both, the 500 has both low/high inputs and the DC feature works flawlessly for auto turn-on.

 

[Nolequad]

This thing seems cool! Just bought two for a completely unrelated project (nothing to do with the Bronco). It doesn’t list an input range, so I’m guessing it’ll accept anything between 0.8V and 12V, But I’ll test it out to see which voltages it accepts when it arrives.

Did you ever play with this? About to put a 500.1 in my MY23 sub-delete and am debating trying this off the factory harness in the rear or tapping into 12v for the remote on via one of the options you listed out in another one of your posts. Curious if you think there's a better way to do it... for $18 I'd rather save my aux wire for a future project.

 

[RagnarKon]

Did you ever play with this? About to put a 500.1 in my MY23 sub-delete and am debating trying this off the factory harness in the rear or tapping into 12v for the remote on via one of the options you listed out in another one of your posts. Curious if you think there's a better way to do it... for $18 I'd rather save my aux wire for a future project.

Only very briefly. Realized I needed some other stuff so waiting for some other components to arrive from Mouser so I can complete the project.

But they seemed to work fine during my brief test.

 

[lynchy522]

@RagnarKon with the 23MY w/ sub delete, could I make the kicker 8 fit with some limited cutting like you did? or is it smaller in other ways as well and not suited.

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