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[How-To] Subwoofer Upgrade - Replacing/Upgrading the Factory Sub
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Part numbers are in the description of the YouTube video.
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Quick update—
Made some changes and setup the amplifier filters on the subwoofer. Sounds a LOT better now.
The B&O subwoofer enclosure is ported by default, but I may actually seal it up with some spray foam, haven't decided yet. These are really small enclosures, and I'm honestly surprised Ford/B&O made them ported from the factory.
I also measured the tuning frequency of the enclosure. @MKZoom's guess of 26 Hz was really close—measured 25 Hz on the B&O enclosure with the Kicker 8" sub. Much lower than I was expecting (I was guessing closer to 32 Hz).
If you want to see that process and a bunch of other misc stuff... new video below. I messed with the subwoofer during the second half of the video—I got the sections marked, so feel free to jump around using the section labels.
Made some changes and setup the amplifier filters on the subwoofer. Sounds a LOT better now.
The B&O subwoofer enclosure is ported by default, but I may actually seal it up with some spray foam, haven't decided yet. These are really small enclosures, and I'm honestly surprised Ford/B&O made them ported from the factory.
I also measured the tuning frequency of the enclosure. @MKZoom's guess of 26 Hz was really close—measured 25 Hz on the B&O enclosure with the Kicker 8" sub. Much lower than I was expecting (I was guessing closer to 32 Hz).
If you want to see that process and a bunch of other misc stuff... new video below. I messed with the subwoofer during the second half of the video—I got the sections marked, so feel free to jump around using the section labels.
So for a ‘23 with sub delete, I can connect the Key500 using the factory wires from the fake amp? Just run a new power and ground?
Does the Key500 come with any wires to splice into the factory wires?
Does the Key500 come with any wires to splice into the factory wires?
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Yup.
The Key 500.1 comes with RCA cables. So you will either have to cut the RCA connectors off to splice into the factory wiring, or cut the factory connector off and terminate the factory wiring with RCA connectors.
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Hey @RagnarKon do you know the measurements of the B&O DSP/Amp? If not the amp itself maybe the space between the mounting holes on the B&O enclosure? I've looked all over and can't find them anywhere. Spitballing from photos I'm guessing somewhere close to 8"x6"x2"
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Not sure what the measurements of the B&O amp are.
The mounting plate I built for my Kicker 500.1 is approx. 9”x7”. I’m sure you could tell from the pictures, but worthwhile to note that mounting holes are not square with each other, so one side of the mounting plate is 7” wide while the other side is probably only 5.5” wide.
With 500.1 mounted it’s around 2” high.
It's a bummer that Ford didn't provide an ample power and ground for the factory sub... seriously, 5 amps? WTF Ford... At least they could have brought back a little more power (15 amps) so that moderately increased power was available for a sub-woofer amp.
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It's a 20 amp fuse, not a 5 amp. Typo that has been in the wiring diagrams since Bronco was launched.
I wouldn't do much more than ~10-13 amps—maybe 15 amps. 2023MY only has a single 12 gauge cable feeding the amplifier back there, so if you are continually pulling close to 20 amps the wire may get a little too toasty for comfort.
B&O system gets around the wire gauge limitation by feeding the DSP with two separate 12V cables. But the base 2023 audio system only has a single 12-gauge.
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Ahhh, it would have saved me 3 mins of time wiring my Kicker 46HS10 sub-woofer. I thought about looking at the actual fuse, but instead ran the dedicated wire.
Everything seemed to work out well, despite still having to swap the stock speakers out, it already sounds much better and I haven't even tuned the Kicker Key 200.4 DSP yet.
Took 4 hours, start to finish to install the Kicker Key 200.4 and the 46HS10 sub, along with removing the fake-woofer and all the relevant interior part removal and re-installation.
The plug and play harness made it easy. The 10" Kicker 46HS10 sub-woofer is a decent performer considering price point, wattage, and size.
Working on my 2023 (sub delete) and wondering if the amp is actually a working amp. Does anybody know?
Also the fake sub was supposed to be a dual coil 2 x 2 ohm (per the sticker on the subwoofer enclosure)
Also the fake sub was supposed to be a dual coil 2 x 2 ohm (per the sticker on the subwoofer enclosure)
NM. I just opened it and it’s a blank board.
![Ford Bronco [How-To] Subwoofer Upgrade - Replacing/Upgrading the Factory Sub IMG_5603](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='2250' height='3000' viewBox%3D'0 0 2250 3000'%2F%3E)
![Ford Bronco [How-To] Subwoofer Upgrade - Replacing/Upgrading the Factory Sub IMG_5603](https://cdn.bronco6g.com/attachments/519/519483-9d38da7caa691d0cb5c3aec222d84385.webp)
Well, just as a quick follow-up on the Kicker 46HS10 sub-woofer and Key 200.4 with the factory speakers.
Wow, just wow, once tuned it's sick and I have not even replaced the factory speakers yet. It was "ok" before tuning it, and way better than stock, but after letting the DSP do it's thing and then adjusting the 46HS10 to match. It's just downright sick.
I wish I was have as impressed as this with the Ford Performance Tune.
Wow, just wow, once tuned it's sick and I have not even replaced the factory speakers yet. It was "ok" before tuning it, and way better than stock, but after letting the DSP do it's thing and then adjusting the 46HS10 to match. It's just downright sick.
I wish I was have as impressed as this with the Ford Performance Tune.
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Does PNP have a harness for the 500.1 that will plug into the pre-existing wiring that I currently have plugged into the Fusion amp? I don't want to start pulling the car apart again, nor do I want to have to go up into the center panel where the ACM is. Also, does that create a "kicker amp" ecosystem, or are the 2 speaker "systems"...sub being 1 and the 6 speakers being the other, still run independently of each other, which to me, diminishes the value of swapping the Fusion out for the Kicker 500.1.
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