23MY sub-delete: Audiophile advice choosing Kicker 6 3/4" vs 8" with Kicker Key 500.1

[TahoeDog]

I'm preparing to make my purchase for an amp/sub to get some base in my WildTrax with a sub-delete. Looking for advice on what will sub size and impedance will sound better. After doing the research, these are the two configurations that seem to make sense:

6 3/4" Kicker 48CWRT672, 2 ohm version. Seems like only the 2 ohm 6" version will work well with the Kicker Key 500.1 to match up the 150 Watt RMS requirements of the sub. Wiring the dual coil 2 ohm sub in series makes a 4 ohm load. The Key500.1 @ 4 ohm = 150 Watts. So a 6", 2 ohm sub wired in series at 150 Watts.

8" Kicker 48CWRT8724, 4 ohm version. Here, the 4 ohm 8" sub will work well with the Kicker Key 500.1 to match up the 300 Watt RMS sub requirements. Wiring the dual coil 4 ohm sub in parallel makes a 2 ohm load. the Key 500.1 @ 2 ohm = 300 Watts. So an 8" sub wired in parallel at 300 Watts.

So, which one sounds better? I've always been a fan of 4 ohm subs for their cleaner sound. The bigger sub and higher Watts rating should provide adequate volume. However, is it worth the installation effort to cut the 8" into the sub-delete enclosure vs a 2 ohm 6 3/4?

Another route is buy used Focal gear. Focal FDS 1.350 (210 Watts RMS @ 4 ohm) amp paired with a Focal P 20 FSE 200 Watt RMS sub (4 ohm single coil 200 Watts RMS).

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[Johnny Mo]

I'm preparing to make my purchase for an amp/sub to get some base in my WildTrax with a sub-delete. Looking for advice on what will sub size and impedance will sound better. After doing the research, these are the two configurations that seem to make sense:

6 3/4" Kicker 48CWRT672, 2 ohm version. Seems like only the 2 ohm 6" version will work well with the Kicker Key 500.1 to match up the 150 Watt RMS requirements of the sub. Wiring the dual coil 2 ohm sub in series makes a 4 ohm load. The Key500.1 @ 4 ohm = 150 Watts. So a 6", 2 ohm sub wired in series at 150 Watts.

8" Kicker 48CWRT8724, 4 ohm version. Here, the 4 ohm 8" sub will work well with the Kicker Key 500.1 to match up the 300 Watt RMS sub requirements. Wiring the dual coil 4 ohm sub in parallel makes a 2 ohm load. the Key 500.1 @ 2 ohm = 300 Watts. So an 8" sub wired in parallel at 300 Watts.

So, which one sounds better? I've always been a fan of 4 ohm subs for their cleaner sound. The bigger sub and higher Watts rating should provide adequate volume. However, is it worth the installation effort to cut the 8" into the sub-delete enclosure vs a 2 ohm 6 3/4?

Another route is buy used Focal gear. Focal FDS 1.350 (210 Watts RMS @ 4 ohm) amp paired with a Focal P 20 FSE 200 Watt RMS sub (4 ohm single coil 200 Watts RMS).

Yes - get the 8" if you have the B&O enclosure there is only a beauty ring on the speaker itself and a minor centering tab that need to get trimmed from the enclosure - absolutely thrilled with my sound system now. Feel free to reach out with questions

 

[Brian_B]

The 8" will sound better. Both will sound good though. More power + larger driver will almost always sound better. Is it worth the effort? I can't really answer that. It takes maybe 30 more minutes of work to fit the 8" (much less if you have the B&O). The 6" at 150W will be plenty loud on it's own - but the 8" at 300W can make your mirrors shake and glass vibrate.

To piggy back on what @Johnny Mo says, if you don't have the B&O enclosure you do have to open up the enclosure mounting hole a little bit to fit the 8" - it's not that difficult though. The plastic is brittle and prone to breaking if you try using a jigsaw or hack saw, and you have to slide the opening a bit forward from center of the existing hole. A dremel with a cutting wheel is probably a better option. It will melt more than cut, but that's ok.

For the 6 1/2", it would drop right in, and if you wanted to use speed nuts for screwing it in (optional, it doesn't necessarily need it) you'd just need to trim a bit of internal structural plastic to get the speed nuts to clip in.

Make sure you seal the enclosure either way you go. Not sure if the dummy enclosure has the open port on the back or not, but it will be very boomy and not very well tuned if you don't seal it. This is far and away the most difficult part of either installation, as the port isn't an easy-to-fit regular shape.

 

[RagnarKon]

It’s already been said by both @Johnny Mo and @Brian_B… but bigger is usually better when it comes to subwoofers.

I have a video on it you are welcome to skim through.

I personally did not seal the enclosure, although I will freely admit that most people who are “in the know” about car audio will say that was the wrong decision. I just honestly preferred the sound of it open.

 

[Johnny Mo]

It’s already been said by both @Johnny Mo and @Brian_B… but bigger is usually better when it comes to subwoofers.

I have a video on it you are welcome to skim through.

I personally did not seal the enclosure, although I will freely admit that most people who are “in the know” about car audio will say that was the wrong decision. I just honestly preferred the sound of it open.

I did not seal my enclosure either - I did stuff quite a bit of poly fill into the "trumpet bends" of the port from the inside of the enclosure though.

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