Where to run wiring for Air compressor

[WILDcardOD]

Just got the thors lightning compressor and rear window molle mount. Im trying to decide what would be the best way to run the wiring up to the battery? I have 24 ft of wire to work with. I haven’t mounted it yet but I will include their pic to show mounting location. @BostonSasquatch gave me lots of help for the rest but someone else did his wiring. The plan is to try to get it under the bronco to run along the frame and up into the engine compartment but I can find an easy way to get down there that is close.

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[BostonSasquatch]

I'll take a closer look tomorrow and see if I can pinpoint it for you. From the battery and fuse box, he ran it along the top of the firewall, securing it (and throughout) with zipties. Around the passenger-side rear of the engine compartment, he dropped it to the bottom of the chassis, and ran it along the rear-oriented frame. I'll have to check just where he brought it up, but it arrived at the front of the right-rear wheelwell. I don't believe he drilled anywhere, but I'll check.

He installed my remote shut-off by bolting it down to the forward-most hardtop bolt, then ran the cable between the compressor and the window to the rear of the compressor, where it entered the compressor's housing.

1) Call ThorsLightning for further advice. It's a small outfit, and they're very responsive.
2) I recommend the addition of a remote. I sit at the driver's seat and monitor my psi on the dash.
3) Their new literature says you can set your psi and it will shut off automatically. If so--fantastic! Disregard #2.
4) The hose bag (with miscellaneous other stuff, like my air mattress adapters, etc.) squeezes between the rollbar strut and the window very nice. Stays put, and is out of the way.
5) Be careful with those MIC rear section bolts--don't over-torque! My bolts are securing: 1) the MIC rear section, 2) my TrailRax PaxRack 3) the ThorsLightning mounting cage ("Refuge") and 4) (on one) the compressor cutoff remote.
6) I have a small tire-plug pouch kit which I mount on the "Refuge" molle. $19 on Amazon right now.

I'd say my MIC rear section is now a very permanent install!

 

[WILDcardOD]

I'll take a closer look tomorrow and see if I can pinpoint it for you. From the battery and fuse box, he ran it along the top of the firewall, securing it (and throughout) with zipties. Around the passenger-side rear of the engine compartment, he dropped it to the bottom of the chassis, and ran it along the rear-oriented frame. I'll have to check just where he brought it up, but it arrived at the front of the right-rear wheelwell. I don't believe he drilled anywhere, but I'll check.

He installed my remote shut-off by bolting it down to the forward-most hardtop bolt, then ran the cable between the compressor and the window to the rear of the compressor, where it entered the compressor's housing.

1) Call ThorsLightning for further advice. It's a small outfit, and they're very responsive.
2) I recommend the addition of a remote. I sit at the driver's seat and monitor my psi on the dash.
3) Their new literature says you can set your psi and it will shut off automatically. If so--fantastic! Disregard #2.
4) The hose bag (with miscellaneous other stuff, like my air mattress adapters, etc.) squeezes between the rollbar strut and the window very nice. Stays put, and is out of the way.
5) Be careful with those MIC rear section bolts--don't over-torque! My bolts are securing: 1) the MIC rear section, 2) my TrailRax PaxRack 3) the ThorsLightning mounting cage ("Refuge") and 4) (on one) the compressor cutoff remote.
6) I have a small tire-plug pouch kit which I mount on the "Refuge" molle. $19 on Amazon right now.

I'd say my MIC rear section is now a very permanent install!

Thank you so much again! I’ll look forward to it! And yeah the total control module seems to make it super easy.

 

[Migo]

If you remove the rear floor in the cargo area, there are two rubber grommets on both the driver and passenger side. I routed my power wires under the vehicle along the frame, then through one of those grommets and behind the passenger side cargo area trim piece.

You can also run it through the firewall behind the steering column, behind the center console (there is a small gap) and glove box (it is easily removed), and then through the cable run that is accessible under the front and rear door sills. This will keep it all inside the vehicle. If I did it again, I would likely do it this way.

Note that in either case, you will need to remove the connector plug from the wire harness, as the plug will not fit through the cable run or the grommet.

 

[WILDcardOD]

If you remove the rear floor in the cargo area, there are two rubber grommets on both the driver and passenger side. I routed my power wires under the vehicle along the frame, then through one of those grommets and behind the passenger side cargo area trim piece.

You can also run it through the firewall behind the steering column, behind the center console (there is a small gap) and glove box (it is easily removed), and then through the cable run that is accessible under the front and rear door sills. This will keep it all inside the vehicle. If I did it again, I would likely do it this way.

Note that in either case, you will need to remove the connector plug from the wire harness, as the plug will not fit through the cable run or the grommet.

Luckily the wire doesn’t have the plug attached so I should be able to run it first then attach everything. And I did find those rubber grommets I think and that was my plan if nothing else. They just need a little x cut in them to push stuff through right?

 

[Migo]

Luckily the wire doesn’t have the plug attached so I should be able to run it first then attach everything. And I did find those rubber grommets I think and that was my plan if nothing else. They just need a little x cut in them to push stuff through right?

I tried the xcut, but my harness was too big, so I just went without the grommet. Given the location, I am not worried about water getting in.

 

[WILDcardOD]

I tried the xcut, but my harness was too big, so I just went without the grommet. Given the location, I am not worried about water getting in.

Good to know and same, I park in a garage and don’t plan on blasting through any massive “puddles”

 

[Imonamoose]

I'll take a closer look tomorrow and see if I can pinpoint it for you. From the battery and fuse box, he ran it along the top of the firewall, securing it (and throughout) with zipties. Around the passenger-side rear of the engine compartment, he dropped it to the bottom of the chassis, and ran it along the rear-oriented frame. I'll have to check just where he brought it up, but it arrived at the front of the right-rear wheelwell. I don't believe he drilled anywhere, but I'll check.

He installed my remote shut-off by bolting it down to the forward-most hardtop bolt, then ran the cable between the compressor and the window to the rear of the compressor, where it entered the compressor's housing.

1) Call ThorsLightning for further advice. It's a small outfit, and they're very responsive.
2) I recommend the addition of a remote. I sit at the driver's seat and monitor my psi on the dash.
3) Their new literature says you can set your psi and it will shut off automatically. If so--fantastic! Disregard #2.
4) The hose bag (with miscellaneous other stuff, like my air mattress adapters, etc.) squeezes between the rollbar strut and the window very nice. Stays put, and is out of the way.
5) Be careful with those MIC rear section bolts--don't over-torque! My bolts are securing: 1) the MIC rear section, 2) my TrailRax PaxRack 3) the ThorsLightning mounting cage ("Refuge") and 4) (on one) the compressor cutoff remote.
6) I have a small tire-plug pouch kit which I mount on the "Refuge" molle. $19 on Amazon right now.

I'd say my MIC rear section is now a very permanent install!

Lol, we have all the same kit except I am not going hard wired on the compressor so I can still take my roof off easily.

I stopped by the thors lightning shop in CO a few weeks ago when i was passing through town and the guy told me they had a new compressor coming that would have set it and forget it auto shut off for PSI. he also said they were working in a hard case system that I am really excited about.

Thors Lightning compressors are top notch. Great company making a great product. Very cool to see how you guys are wiring these things up and giving me some good ideas!

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

You can do what we've done. Route the wire down behind the plastic on passenger side. Then bring it to the end of the cargo space. Route it under the plastic molding and then over to the storage area where your jack is. THere are some plastic pieces in there you can pop-out and make larger holes if necesasry. Then straight down and along the frame up to your battery.

 

[vrtical]

There is enough room to run it from behind the seat area under the plastic kick panels to the engine bay, I actually have a harness ran that way with 2 positive and 1 negative 8 gauge wire.

 

[WILDcardOD]

You can do what we've done. Route the wire down behind the plastic on passenger side. Then bring it to the end of the cargo space. Route it under the plastic molding and then over to the storage area where your jack is. THere are some plastic pieces in there you can pop-out and make larger holes if necesasry. Then straight down and along the frame up to your battery.

That initial getting it down behind the plastic was the part I was struggling with, I’d found those little plastic pieces you’re talking about. Do I need to pull the whole passenger cargo side of plastic?

 

[WILDcardOD]

There is enough room to run it from behind the seat area under the plastic kick panels to the engine bay, I actually have a harness ran that way with 2 positive and 1 negative 8 gauge wire.

Really?! I thought about that but the wire was so thick I didn’t think it would be possible to fit.

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

That initial getting it down behind the plastic was the part I was struggling with, I’d found those little plastic pieces you’re talking about. Do I need to pull the whole passenger cargo side of plastic?

Not sure. I don't remember if I ever removed the entire side panel. Basically just the top and you should be able to throw the wire over and pull it from the hinge area

 

[vrtical]

Really?! I thought about that but the wire was so think I didn’t think it would be possible to fit.

If it's for the air compressor you should not need 0/1 wire. ARB is 40 amp for reference.

Middle black wire loom is what I got to work. I ran it on the driver side because there is already an access hole above the dead pedal for the firewall.

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

If it's for the air compressor you should not need 0/1 wire. ARB is 40 amp for reference.

Middle black wire loom is what I got to work. I ran it on the driver side because there is already an access hole above the dead pedal for the firewall.

ARB is 80 total actually... Dual 40 amp circuits for a twin. We use #10 gauge when we design our harnesses for 25' extensions:

https://www.4x4truckleds.com/crystalux-25-power-extension-harness-for-arb-twin-compressors/

However the OP does not have an ARB, he has an off-road compressor. It MIGHT use the ARB style harness though as most do.

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