Non B&O to B&O

[Biohip]

I’ve got a 23 bronco that’s got the “fake sub” if I was to get the sun out of one with the b&o system would I be able to just plug everything in and have it work or is there something else that I’m going to need to do?

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[RagnarKon]

You need an amplifier and you'll need to turn on the subwoofer output with Forscan.

Lots of info here:

[How-To] Subwoofer Upgrade - Replacing/Upgrading the Factory Sub

 

[Biohip]

I’ve got someone selling the sub amp and all the other 6 speakers. I guess I will just need to find someone with forscan

 

[zombie]

If my Mustang w/ B&O is anything to go by, I wouldn't even bother.

 

[Agrod]

My Bronco has the B&O. It's Ok at best. The OEM sub is the worst component in the system. I still want some louder, cleaner bass, but the B&O complicates things with the inclusion of the DSP and its internal crossovers.

I haven't made any changes to the system because it has B&O. If it didn't, all the speakers would've been replaced by now, along with a plug and play Kicker Key amplifier. Any custom system will sound better and louder than the OEM B&O system.

And then on top, the noise levels from the SAS tires and wind noise from the hardtop drowns out the benefits that a multichannel system like the B&O could provide. I sure miss the Bang and Olufsen system that my Audi had. That and it's double pane glass.

 

[widnere12]

I’ve got someone selling the sub amp and all the other 6 speakers. I guess I will just need to find someone with forscan

Coming from someone that has experienced the stock 4-speaker, and owns a bronco with B&O, I have to say that Honestly. the B&O speakers are not worth purchasing as any type of upgrade unless you want to spend money on just the ABILITY to say its an upgrade. The 4" speakers are muddy sounding and the 6.5" Kick panel speakers are really only so-so. Also, as said above, the sub is probably the worst sounding speaker in the group. It rattles due to an oddly mounted enclosure that sits too close to the cargo area plastic, and hits too tight because its too small.

I personally just replaced the 4" front and rears. I added Kicker KS series 4" to the dash and used the MTI pods to increase the size of the rear to Kicker KS 6.5" speakers. Same with the kick panels.

Everything sounds great now EXCEPT the sub... which still rattles and hits poorly... so I'll be changing that too.

You'd be better off to buy a kicker key amp and swap out your speakers, adding a basic sub for about the same cost.

 

[BlarneyStoned]

I'll let you know in a month or two once everything shows up, lol.

Upgrading from non B&O to a B&O based system is not simply getting the B&O subwoofer enclosure - which is different from the 7 speaker subwoofer enclosure - or the B&O Amp/DSP.

If you truly want to do a B&O swap you need to replace the ACM, swap some wiring harnesses, the B&O DSP, and potentially the speakers, then make changes with Forscan to configure it all (I don't *think* FDRS is needed for that).

I will say having heard the B&O system, I wouldn't spend that kind of money/effort just for the B&O speakers. It sounds better, but you can do better for the same money and effort.

I'm going for a OEM as possible system that won't take up cargo space and won't negate my washout flooring. 3-way actives in the front plus rear fill is 8 channels, needing a DSP & amp plus a subwoofer amp. I'm not really doing a B&O swap to get the B&O but because it enables me to use the mObridge 8.1.1 amp and the JL Audio Stealthbox and tuck it all behind the OEM side panel. It's actually cheaper than the 8/10/12 channel DSP amp solutions I was otherwise considering and they claim it will fit in the same space as the B&O DSP.

 

[Alex Sector]

I’ve got someone selling the sub amp and all the other 6 speakers. I guess I will just need to find someone with forscan

I purchased an entire take-off B&O system from a member here about a year ago for $20. This was before the subwoofer for non-B&O was announced. Looks like I won't be using it at all. The speakers look like trash. The only reason I purchased it was for the subwoofer enclosure - which I probably won't use now, unless I mess mine up retrofitting the 6.75" Kicker sub. I asked @RagnarKon about this already - the amp is different and won't work with non-B&O. You can read his response here:

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...nd-functional-amps-removed.61106/post-1903498

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