[How-To] FORScan Audio/Speaker Mods

[AXMRDR]

Don't know for sure.

On Ford vehicles whenever you see a "Speaker/Tweeter" setup from the factory, it's almost always a speaker and a tweeter connected in parallel (2 ohm config). The "Speaker" config is usually just a mid-range speaker connected in a 4 ohm config.

Whether that setting actually changes the impedance of the channel output or not... can't say. I could certainly find out with the right equipment, but I don't own that equipment, and the local community college wouldn't let me take their gear off their property (and yes I asked).

That is what I was wondering.

Also wondering, because I've read 15 pages and have info overload that I can't recall, if there are any frequency changes when selecting speaker or speaker/tweeter?

Thank you for your videos. I found them informational and entertaining.

I'll be like so many other and share my plan. I am worried about the 2 ohm load on the front channels. The kicker 200.4 says it is designed for 4 ohms. That could be why some folks are getting clipping on higher volumes.

I plan on feeding the front dash speakers before the amp and feeding the kick panel speakers from the kicker. (and the rear speakers)

I'm replacing all of the speaker with JL C2 speakers of matching sizes.

Ordered a kicker 500.1 to feed a 10" downward firing shallow mount Pioneer sub in a box I have built.

I am not sure if the front speakers will 'get lost' by not being powered by the amp but I reckon I'll find out. Curious to see how the kicker DSP will compensate.

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[mdube72]

So I finally got around to pulling the back panel off today to replace the sub and amp and I was shocked to see a functional sub and amp! I thought for sure I had the fakes. I went back to my paperwork and sure enough on my order form when we placed our order was a credit for $250 since they could not give us the 7 speaker system. However on our window sticker it listed the 7 speaker system. I guess I should have looked a little more closely before buying a new amp. I went ahead and replaced the sub and it does sound much better. I have not gone into forescan yet to check setting but not sure I even have too since the sub and amp are turned on and working.

With all that said I have an factory amp if anyone wants it. Ill give it away you just pay for shipping.

@marsdenmike - If you haven't replaced your other speakers yet in the corners or the rear pods, go with something with high sensitivity like the Hertz DCX 100.3 - Hertz DCX 100.3 Dieci Series 4" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield . If you go below 90db on the sensitivity of the new speakers, you will likely be disappointed, especially if you are sticking with the factory amplifier. the Infinity's have a high sensitivity as well - Infinity Reference REF407F Reference Series 4" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

 

[2024BroncoOuterBanks]

I'm going to install the SSV rear pods on my 2024 4 door Outer Banks with B&O. My 727-01-01 is 3017-34FD-1088. I don't understand the 3 as the first number in the second set which apparently means No Speaker passenger side pod? I'm thinking I want to go to a 2 there and an A for the second? There is a sub from the factory I believe - 10 speaker - there is panel on the passenger side rear

 

[RagnarKon]

I'm going to install the SSV rear pods on my 2024 4 door Outer Banks with B&O. My 727-01-01 is 3017-34FD-1088. I don't understand the 3 as the first number in the second set which apparently means No Speaker passenger side pod? I'm thinking I want to go to a 2 there and an A for the second? There is a sub from the factory I believe - 10 speaker - there is panel on the passenger side rear

If you have the B&O system, then really nothing in this thread applies to you.

The B&O system is primarily driven through a separate audio DSP that is mounted next to the subwoofer in the rear cargo area. There are effectively no customization options available to you if you have the B&O DSP—the only thing you can do is toggle between the 2-door and 4-door audio configuration.

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