E Brake switch replacement

[masterroth]

Thank you for posting this! Just picked up my Badlands on Saturday and did this with in the first 30 seconds of ownership. I cracked up and said "Well, You break it, you buy it"

The bad thing is when the button comes off, the switch insides fly out along with it. I was a little worried it was going to become an immediate issue because the brake was set when it broke and I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to get it released. To top it off, It was Saturday so only sales guys at the dealership. However, my MacGyver side took over and found out with a little feeling around inside the now hollow housing that there's two tiny little lever "triggers". One at 12 o'clock and one at 6. The top little trigger sets the brake and the bottom one releases it. I've now become the brake "tickle" master and joke that I like this process better and I'm not even planning on repairing the button now.

I've also found out since then too that if you put it in gear and just start attempting to move, the brake auto releases after a certain amount of load.

Thank you for sharing this. You are the first person who has done it to their personal car I've seen. Is it possible if you could send a video of you doing this process or annotating a picture because I can't understand how to do this with mine. The dealers I've spoken to just say it is on backorder and really haven't been very helpful so im trying to use your temporary solution. This is what mine currently looks like.

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[masterroth]

My wife broke the e-brake handle on Thursday while the Bronco was parked in the driveway. A quick review of the online owners manual gave me the answer I needed to tell her how to dis-eengage the e-brake. The Bronco goes into the service dept tomorrow morning at which time I will find out the length of time (probably a long tiime) before the handle and related parts are available. I have the broken handle and 2 small springs that came out. Thank god I don't really need to use the e-brake on a day to day basis.

Thanks for the help as the dealers I have spoken to haven’t helped much. How long did your dealer tell you it would be until the parts are available.

 

[Arcnsparks]

Thank you for sharing this. You are the first person who has done it to their personal car I've seen. Is it possible if you could send a video of you doing this process or annotating a picture because I can't understand how to do this with mine. The dealers I've spoken to just say it is on backorder and really haven't been very helpful so im trying to use your temporary solution. This is what mine currently looks like.

Sure, your pictures actually show the switches pretty well. I use my ring finger on my left hand to push the little switch levers. (its the only finger that comfortably fits and has enough length) It's uncomfortable at first and feels rather deep in the switch.

If still unclear, I'll see if I can get some additional pictures of actually triggering it.

 

[masterroth]

Sure, your pictures actually show the switches pretty well. I use my ring finger on my left hand to push the little switch levers. (its the only finger that comfortably fits and has enough length) It's uncomfortable at first and feels rather deep in the switch.

If still unclear, I'll see if I can get some additional pictures of actually triggering it.

Wow, this is extremely helpful. Thank you for a detailed diagram. I will be sure to try this when im back at my car agian. This seems fairly obvious and logical now that you've shown it to me so thanks for the help.

 

[LarryZiegler]

Thanks for the help as the dealers I have spoken to haven’t helped much. How long did your dealer tell you it would be until the parts are available.

After getting my vehicle back, a new switch was ordered from Memphis and will be replaced on Mon Jan 3

 

[masterroth]

After getting my vehicle back, a new switch was ordered from Memphis and will be replaced on Mon Jan 3

Interesting as mine just says its on back order and can't provide an eta. What dealer was this from.

 

[LarryZiegler]

Interesting as mine just says its on back order and can't provide an eta. What dealer was this from.

I am using Future Ford Clovis, CA for the part and repair

 

[deejay08]

I mean, it is a non-issue unless you lack a basic level of competence.

Honestly, it doesn't get much easier than pulling the lever and pushing the button with the same level of force you use on your turn signal, GOAT dial, seat adjustments, or basically any other function in the car.

It is basic, day 1 shit that literally any child could figure out.

The problem i have with ebrakes on an offroader is that it is only a non issue if the other braking system is working. You see that post about brakes failing on the highway? Now imagine you are on a tight switchback turning going downhill too fast and need to use your brake, well sorry too bad. You are now off a cliff and maybe dead. A manual hand brake gives you another level of safety e brakes simply do not offer. I hate that they have become so popular.

 

[masterroth]

I am using Future Ford Clovis, CA for the part and repair

Did they manage to repair your car on Monday as im still having problems with them trying to get the part. If they did fix it fully on Monday who was the person you dealt with at future ford?

 

[LarryZiegler]

Did they manage to repair your car on Monday as im still having problems with them trying to get the part. If they did fix it fully on Monday who was the person you dealt with at future ford?

My Bronco’s e-brake handle was satisfactorily replaced a week ago Monday as scheduled. I dropped the vehicle off at the Service Dept a couple weeks earlier for inspection and parts ordering and all was taken care of under warranty. They told me the parts used for replacement came from Memphis. The person I dealt with was Angelina Stallings, the Asst Service Mgr.

 

[masterroth]

My Bronco’s e-brake handle was satisfactorily replaced a week ago Monday as scheduled. I dropped the vehicle off at the Service Dept a couple weeks earlier for inspection and parts ordering and all was taken care of under warranty. They told me the parts used for replacement came from Memphis. The person I dealt with was Angelina Stallings, the Asst Service Mgr.

Thank you for your help. I have now managed to order one online so it can be fitted at my local dealer. This is where I got it from, https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Fo...rake-Control-Switch/94567113/ML3Z2B623AA.html

 

[Arcnsparks]

Received my new switch that the dealer had ordered and shipped to me and installed it this evening, finally. Once I got the new one in, I dug into the old one and found that it's pretty straightforward and I actually had all of the parts still to get the old one back up and working perfectly. I thought perhaps if anyone else has this issue in the future, and as long as you retain the small parts, it's possible to do a self repair and possibly not need a replacement.

Let's begin with all the parts:

To release the back housing lightly pry the 4 spots on the back to release the clips.

Pull straight outward on the pins to remove the PCB

If all of the inside components came out in your hand like mine did when it failed, then you will likely have an empty housing at this point.

Start the reassembly with the lever and actuator. Mine was separated and you can see the bottom is slightly cracked but it clicked back together fine and felt good. Make sure when it goes back on you hear a click, mine took a decent amount of force. Otherwise, the lever will not feel right and will require a second disassembly. The circle in the below picture shows you the proper engagement of both parts and the portion of my actuator that was cracked.

Next is the spring and detent assembly. Nothing keeps this in place during reassembly so caution is needed here to not lose anything.

Make sure the wings on the detent slides into the slots on the housing. The detent only goes in one direction for this to occur properly.

Next, will be clicking the lever and actuator assembly back onto the main housing. Make sure here to line up the detent with the grove in the lever. This was easiest done for me if the detent was on the bottom. Maneuvering the actuator through the front opening is a small puzzle but it does go through.

Once through the opening, begin by clicking the lever over the post on the actuator side. Verify the detent is still lined up and click the remaining lever side together. You should be able to operate the lever at this point and feel the detent performing its function properly.

If everything works like it should at this point, then simply reassembling the PCB and the back housing cover should get you a functioning switch once again. Make sure the board mounted switches are lined up properly with the actuator and slide the PCB into the housing over the guide posts molded into the main housing.

Guide the back housing over the PCB pins and click everything back into place and you're finished!

If for some reason you need to get back into the switch, a small screwdriver under the lever posts will pop everything back apart.

 

[cigartexan]

What happens if/when you lose electrical power on a vehicle with an Electric E-Brake? The Fail Safe Default is for the E-Brake to engage, but I don't know what the Ford Engineers decided to happen. Now with a Manual Hand Brake, I know.

 

[Murfman]

Received my new switch that the dealer had ordered and shipped to me and installed it this evening, finally. Once I got the new one in, I dug into the old one and found that it's pretty straightforward and I actually had all of the parts still to get the old one back up and working perfectly. I thought perhaps if anyone else has this issue in the future, and as long as you retain the small parts, it's possible to do a self repair and possibly not need a replacement.

Let's begin with all the parts:

To release the back housing lightly pry the 4 spots on the back to release the clips.

Pull straight outward on the pins to remove the PCB

If all of the inside components came out in your hand like mine did when it failed, then you will likely have an empty housing at this point.

Start the reassembly with the lever and actuator. Mine was separated and you can see the bottom is slightly cracked but it clicked back together fine and felt good. Make sure when it goes back on you hear a click, mine took a decent amount of force. Otherwise, the lever will not feel right and will require a second disassembly. The circle in the below picture shows you the proper engagement of both parts and the portion of my actuator that was cracked.

Next is the spring and detent assembly. Nothing keeps this in place during reassembly so caution is needed here to not lose anything.

Make sure the wings on the detent slides into the slots on the housing. The detent only goes in one direction for this to occur properly.

Next, will be clicking the lever and actuator assembly back onto the main housing. Make sure here to line up the detent with the grove in the lever. This was easiest done for me if the detent was on the bottom. Maneuvering the actuator through the front opening is a small puzzle but it does go through.

Once through the opening, begin by clicking the lever over the post on the actuator side. Verify the detent is still lined up and click the remaining lever side together. You should be able to operate the lever at this point and feel the detent performing its function properly.

If everything works like it should at this point, then simply reassembling the PCB and the back housing cover should get you a functioning switch once again. Make sure the board mounted switches are lined up properly with the actuator and slide the PCB into the housing over the guide posts molded into the main housing.

Guide the back housing over the PCB pins and click everything back into place and you're finished!

If for some reason you need to get back into the switch, a small screwdriver under the lever posts will pop everything back apart.

Thank you for taking the time to post this up. Mine came off on Thursday and I have the parts so I will give it a shot.

 

[Scott R Nelson]

Yeah, thank for the notes on how to put a broken one back together. I gave it half a try and almost had it all figured out, but not quite.

I haven't seen the part number on here, but one of the links had it: ML3Z-2B623-AA and that's what's on my parts box with the old broken one in it.

I let my son-in-law drive it and as I was about to explain how to release the parking brake he just tore it right out of there. I'm surprised this isn't more common than it seems to be.

From now on, the first thing I will tell anybody I let drive it will be "DON'T DESTROY MY PARKING BRAKE!!" Then I'll calmly explain how to work it.

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