"Circuit Open" DTC after speaker upgrade

[DeaconBlues]

I just performed the following modification with my 2023 Big Bend:

1. Kicker Panels - Kicker 6.5" 600 Watt 4-Ohm
2. Dash - Kicker 4" 300 Watt 4-Ohm
3. Rear Pods - Kicker 6.75" 600 Watt 4-Ohm
4. Subwoofer - Kicker 8" DVC 4-Ohm
5. Kicker Key 200.4 amp for speakers
6. Ford Fusion amp for sub

My battery light came on a few days later and the Ford app told me it was a "12V charging system fault'. So I plugged in FORScan to get a DTC and was given the following:

"Code: B1A06 - Speaker #6​

Additional Fault Symptom ( :13):​

- Circuit Open​

Status (-0B):​

- DTC Present at Time of Request​

- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC​

Module: Audio Control Module"​

I've checked my ACM hex strings and don't think the problem lies there, but I could be wrong. This is what I'm currently running:

Any help correcting this would be greatly appreciated!

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[soldier989]

I had the same code pop when I enabled my subwoofer and set the rear speakers to "speaker". The sound from the rear pods was so much better after...but...In addition to that code popping, I lost the door chime sound coming through the speakers (it came from the cluster instead) and would have some weird digital sounds come through the speakers when I'd open my door or turned the car off.

My initial assumptions were that setting the rear to "speaker" caused the ACM to look for 4ohm, versus the 2ohm stocks. When that failed, the ACM went into like a safe mode, popped the code and defaulted vehicle warning chimes to thee dash instead of the speakers.

Once I replaced the rear speakers to 4ohm Infinities, I instantly regained vehicle chimes through back through my speakers and I no longer have that digital sound. With that in mind, I did not hook Forscan back up to wipe the codes and see if that fixed my issue. I figured everything went back to normal and I was good with that.

This may not have been much help, but I wanted you to know that you're not alone. I don't know if I'm right about the resistance being detected and throwing the code, but maybe? Did you also lose the chiming through your speakers or hear a weird noise running through your speakers upon door opening or shutting the car off?

 

[DeaconBlues]

I had the same code pop when I enabled my subwoofer and set the rear speakers to "speaker". The sound from the rear pods was so much better after...but...In addition to that code popping, I lost the door chime sound coming through the speakers (it came from the cluster instead) and would have some weird digital sounds come through the speakers when I'd open my door or turned the car off.

My initial assumptions were that setting the rear to "speaker" caused the ACM to look for 4ohm, versus the 2ohm stocks. When that failed, the ACM went into like a safe mode, popped the code and defaulted vehicle warning chimes to thee dash instead of the speakers.

Once I replaced the rear speakers to 4ohm Infinities, I instantly regained vehicle chimes through back through my speakers and I no longer have that digital sound. With that in mind, I did not hook Forscan back up to wipe the codes and see if that fixed my issue. I figured everything went back to normal and I was good with that.

This may not have been much help, but I wanted you to know that you're not alone. I don't know if I'm right about the resistance being detected and throwing the code, but maybe? Did you also lose the chiming through your speakers or hear a weird noise running through your speakers upon door opening or shutting the car off?

So I never lost any of my chimes like you did, but it appears I had the same issue with incorrect resistance. I went and checked all my speaker boxes and it looks like Amazon accidentally sent me a 2 ohm subwoofer instead of the 4 ohm. I got a proper one delivered this morning and just popped it in. But now I have a different problem...

The DTC is gone for the "circuit open" error, but the battery light on my dash still won't go away. I've cleared all the DTCs, removed the negative battery terminal for 30s so the computer would reset, but it still pops back up. Now I'm just getting irritated that something is triggering it, but the vehcile won't even give me a code to diagnose it.

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