AGS Bronco Air-Gate Kit Installed

[Bronco_Buckeroo]

Yeah. Chat GPT is nice for searching and getting a concise answer! Used it for wire size the other day when I couldn't remember the gauge of the aux wires.

I always thought, the longer the wire, the more that can go wrong whether it be getting close to something hot or moving or rubbing up against something sharp but I'm in software--not hardware.

Cloud systems, myself, so my hardware IS software, in a sense.

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[Bronco_Buckeroo]

I've been filming my install, it might take a year to edit but I finally got my wires up to the firewall. I'm going to keep the fuses near the pedals and extend the wires to connect. In hindsight I don't think I'd use the Expedition Essentials harness again.

Also, depending on model/engine/transmission the firewall pass-through will be different. I cut into the blank where the main wiring goes through.

Ever get your video edited and up?

 

[Jo8n]

Ever get your video edited and up?

Not, technically, my place to answer but I happen to have been following along (although hadn't seen the latest updates).
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-in-the-tire-carrier-custom-fabricated.64814/

 

[JohnnyBoots]

Ever get your video edited and up?

Ha NO!!! I did say it'd take a year!

Mine is installed and working. I'm just waiting on some custom switches for the 3 areas in the rear (cargo lights, compressor and inverter). I did not run to a Aux switch but may to use as a "master" switch.

 

[Doc TOC]

Whoa Broncos. There are a lot of assumptions going on here. I have some questions.

1st.
Should you actually be mounting the compressor exterior on the rear gate?
ARB's compressor motors are IP55 rated. They are not meant to handle fine dust or "direct jet spray". Isn't that what it will get? This is a down draft position. 60+mph down a freeway meets that direct jet standard. ARB recommends under the hood or an interior mount location - away from direct exposure to water and dust. Is this enabling early failure? And what about the electrical connection points to the motors?

2nd.
What are you really gaining from this location?
Spending $300+ and putting it on the rear gate isn't really moving it any closer to all 4 tires.
For $40 you can buy hood struts.
Or for $65 you could buy more hose, a covered connector, nuts & bolts, and angle iron and mount it on your bumper, like several members have done. This is my plan.

3rd.
ARB rates the compressors under load at 50 amps each - not 40 amps. Their wiring gauges are for SHORT runs. The 40A fuses are used as a safety measure. It will blow sooner than a 50A. With the gate location, the wire has gone from a 5-6 foot length to 25 feet plus. You should be using two (2) 4AWG wire for this length. This is power transfer, not chassis wiring. The ratings are different. If you are going to be airing up everybody, 2AWG would be better. These are 100% duty cycle motors which will heat up. Don't be surprised if the 10AWG wire at the motor connection melts the insulation.

4th.
(In lieu of a rhetorical question.) Using breakers. No.
Breakers are not designed for exterior automotive use. There is a reason why you see fuses, and not breakers, in the engine compartment. ASAE and ASNE do not approve unprotected breakers for engine compartment or exterior use. Throw some 40A fuses into the center console and your golden.

If you still want to move ahead with this mounting location, have at it.
It's your Bronco to modify how you want, smartly or not.

But it's no fun seeing this.

 

[Jo8n]

Whoa Broncos. There are a lot of assumptions going on here. I have some questions.

1st.
Should you actually be mounting the compressor exterior on the rear gate?
ARB's compressor motors are IP55 rated. They are not meant to handle fine dust or "direct jet spray". Isn't that what it will get? This is a down draft position. 60+mph down a freeway meets that direct jet standard. ARB recommends under the hood or an interior mount location - away from direct exposure to water and dust. Is this enabling early failure? And what about the electrical connection points to the motors?
...

Kind of an overwhelming amount of questions. I'll respond to what I can but I get that some of these are more of objections than actual questions.

You're right it's not that much closer to anything but it's convenient. I can start the car and start airing up the Bronco tires or my other cars'. I could almost as easily just pop the hood too. Point taken.

Regarding dust, AGS provides (it's an add-on option though) the hoses and connectors to route the intake for the compressors into the interior. That said, I'm not using the compressor unless I'm airing up my tires--so I'm not driving (I realize there are applications where you might). So there's not much difference between being under the hood with the hood open and behind the tire when in use. If you're worried about dust getting into the rest of the compressor even while it's turned off, the engine bay might be better. I hadn't considered that but I'm not sure it's an issue. I wouldn't say the engine bay is dust and water free though. If you're that worried, might want to mount it under seat as I've seen some people do.

I've gone back and forth on the wire. I think you may be right about that it should be a heavier gauge. I've bought the wire but haven't run it yet. My only consideration is that I've used it thus far without issue but still.

Regarding the breakers in the engine bay, they are in the protective cover (albeit when closed all the way I'm concerned about the breaker function). I hadn't considered putting them (or fuses) in the center console. Shouldn't circuit protection be be as close to the battery as possible? I know we've discussed this some already but that seems like a lot of opportunity for something to go wrong with a wire on the unfused side.

You said you plan to mount it on your bumper? What about your dust concerns?

 

[WILDcardOD]

What’s the benefit to this instead of the under the hood mount.

 

[Jo8n]

What’s the benefit to this instead of the under the hood mount.

Well, you don't have to open your hood but that's pretty obvious I guess. With their optional hose setup, it's unlikely to get any dust inside the unit. Actually doing the mounting is super easy compared to some under hood installs I've seen but I undoubtedly haven't seen all setups.

The wiring is much more of a pain and subject to some obvious issues.

I definitely would not try to convince anyone to go this route. I'd rather be clear about the issues and, If it appeals, it appeals.

 

[WILDcardOD]

Well, you don't have to open your hood but that's pretty obvious I guess. With their optional hose setup, it's unlikely to get any dust inside the unit. Actually doing the mounting is super easy compared to some under hood installs I've seen but I undoubtedly haven't seen all setups.

The wiring is much more of a pain and subject to some obvious issues.

I definitely would not try to convince anyone to go this route. I'd rather be clear about the issues and, If it appeals, it appeals.

For sure, I mean definitely this has the cool factor down. Love how hidden it is. But yeah the simpler wiring of under the hood is the appealing part.

 

[Doc TOC]

Kind of an overwhelming amount of questions.

True. And that was the edited version.

We are sold stuff that seems cool, but badly engineered, or not even engineered. You can read it all over this forum. We are pissed at Ford for "not engineering this right" - and cry warranty, but let all the other vendors off the hook. I think it happened here.

My evidence - AGS's posted email that didn't get a real response.
Instead of acting like "Well F* it, we'll just do what they did.", it should have been, "Maybe we should ask an electrical engineer who knows what they are doing. We certainly don't." And thus, the shit advice. AGS can publish their engineering considerations and calculations, and prove me wrong. I'm can handle that.

And shame on ARB for not putting screw terminals for the motor wires. The proper wire gauge should be run from the source to the terminal. That 10AWG stub is liking wiring up to a resistor for a long run. The 10AWG and 8AWG should be three (3) 8AWG stubs with eye connectors. If you need a thicker gauge, they aren't in the way.

About the fuses. I meant - put spare fuses in the center console. You are correct, the actual inline protection should be as close to the battery as possible.

Bumper mount was meant for the air connection location. Still mounting the compressor under the hood.

Rear gate location. It's a turbulent down draft location. Not a place to mount an exposed motor and electrical connections not designed for it. Could you put a cover over it? Sure. But now you have a heat issue to deal with, and probably a rattle.

Wire gauge. Use this link. Circuit Wizard
My son designs and troubleshoots power transformers and battery banks for the marine and military industry. He said these guys know their stuff. I have used it over the last 4 years and stopped doing manual calculations.

And thanks for the open mind. Makes the forum worth reading.

 

[Figmo]

Looks good. This was my #2 choice for a mount on the Bronco.

Been running dual compressors on multiple vehicles pretty much since they came out. Tried just about every mounting position over the years (under hood, under seat, in truck bed, etc) and was super excited when I first saw this.

Ultimately, with the Bronco build, I opted to try the suitcase mount for the first time. So far, I’m liking the portability of it. Storing it hasn’t been an issue for me yet (that was my biggest concern before pulling the trigger).

But if I ever decide the suitcase thing isn’t working out - I plan on circling back to this idea. Thank you for sharing.

 

[Jo8n]

True. And that was the edited version.

We are sold stuff that seems cool, but badly engineered, or not even engineered. You can read it all over this forum. We are pissed at Ford for "not engineering this right" - and cry warranty, but let all the other vendors off the hook. I think it happened here.

My evidence - AGS's posted email that didn't get a real response.
Instead of acting like "Well F* it, we'll just do what they did.", it should have been, "Maybe we should ask an electrical engineer who knows what they are doing. We certainly don't." And thus, the shit advice. AGS can publish their engineering considerations and calculations, and prove me wrong. I'm can handle that.

And shame on ARB for not putting screw terminals for the motor wires. The proper wire gauge should be run from the source to the terminal. That 10AWG stub is liking wiring up to a resistor for a long run. The 10AWG and 8AWG should be three (3) 8AWG stubs with eye connectors. If you need a thicker gauge, they aren't in the way.

About the fuses. I meant - put spare fuses in the center console. You are correct, the actual inline protection should be as close to the battery as possible.

Bumper mount was meant for the air connection location. Still mounting the compressor under the hood.

Rear gate location. It's a turbulent down draft location. Not a place to mount an exposed motor and electrical connections not designed for it. Could you put a cover over it? Sure. But now you have a heat issue to deal with, and probably a rattle.

Wire gauge. Use this link. Circuit Wizard
My son designs and troubleshoots power transformers and battery banks for the marine and military industry. He said these guys know their stuff. I have used it over the last 4 years and stopped doing manual calculations.

And thanks for the open mind. Makes the forum worth reading.

Yeah. I wish the compressor had the terminals like you said. I know they're trying to make it easy for people with lockers and switches with that harness but it'd be nicer for the folks who just want basic air availability to have the ability to wire just the power and ground wires and a switch all the way to the unit.

I knew I must be misunderstanding regarding the fuses in the console and the bumper location but, yeah, that makes sense. I like the idea of mounting under the hood with the air run to the bumper.

Thanks for the link to the circuit wizard. Based on my length, I get 6AWG which I already bought. Now, if I want to do it right and feel better about the whole setup, I'll have to cut their harness short, tie in at the tail gate, rerun the wires. At least maybe I can use the already run wires for something else down the road.

 

[Jo8n]

Looks good. This was my #2 choice for a mount on the Bronco.

Been running dual compressors on multiple vehicles pretty much since they came out. Tried just about every mounting position over the years (under hood, under seat, in truck bed, etc) and was super excited when I first saw this.

Ultimately, with the Bronco build, I opted to try the suitcase mount for the first time. So far, I’m liking the portability of it. Storing it hasn’t been an issue for me yet (that was my biggest concern before pulling the trigger).

But if I ever decide the suitcase thing isn’t working out - I plan on circling back to this idea. Thank you for sharing.

Yeah. The added benefit of having that portability and the simplicity of just putting some clamps on the wires is very tempting.

 

[Doc TOC]

I opted to try the suitcase mount for the first time

I saw that setup and liked the buffer tank idea, but not the kit price. The buffer tank helps keep the voltage draw steady, which is better for the battery. Doing a rheostat circuit off the alternator isn't worth the effort.

I am contemplating getting a 2L inline buffer tank and plumbing lines to both bumpers. Finding the right dimensional tank, where to mount it, and how to route the lines isn't determined yet. Thinking 4x10 (100mm x 260mm) tank. 3/8" soft copper x 50ft line would be plenty for chassis mounting. Tank, line, fittings, mounting hardware and all is about $155. Or I just might do a tank with a rubber line to the front bumper and leave it at that.

 

[Figmo]

I saw that setup and liked the buffer tank idea, but not the kit price. The buffer tank helps keep the voltage draw steady, which is better for the battery. Doing a rheostat circuit off the alternator isn't worth the effort.

I am contemplating getting a 2L inline buffer tank and plumbing lines to both bumpers. Finding the right dimensional tank, where to mount it, and how to route the lines isn't determined yet. Thinking 4x10 (100mm x 260mm) tank. 3/8" soft copper x 50ft line would be plenty for chassis mounting. Tank, line, fittings, mounting hardware and all is about $155. Or I just might do a tank with a rubber line to the front bumper and leave it at that.

Not sure what kind of fabrication abilities you have - but I’ve built my own bumpers before and welded them shut so they can act as a small air tanks. Between front and rear I’ve achieved 3-4 gallons of air storage before. Even if you didn’t build your own bumper - you could build your own tank tucked under the rig with steel tubing (round or rectangular).

Food for thought.

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