Yeah, no blasting and currently no squeaks. I'll use the term brace in my searches to see if I find more threads on it, couldn't really find much with cross member support etc...
I do like AAL stuff and looking at them as well. I have the STP and looking at the MASS but really like the attic which is really high and tucked up in the hard top.
I'm looking more organized ways of storing more gear for overlanding and came across the Mountains2Metal equipment. I've now have several other things from them and really like the gear.
So my big question is wanting to get people thoughts on removing the large cross member support in the back...
I looked at that but 10awg seemed pretty big to do that. I'm looking at 300watt solar on my RTT.
Here is what I ended up doing, first attempt and already thinking of ways to do it better.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/lightbar-grounding.101219/post-2341560
I decided to go with the driver side c-pillar. This is my first attempt, I already have an idea to do it better.
The door doesn't rub on the wiring, I do wish there was a little more space there or another way to run it that's better. These are for
The braiding was me messing it up NOT the...
We do a trip out to MOAB from the east coast every other year to do more overlanding type things but we doing some trailing white rim and elephant hill type. Our is coming up next year so I'm working to get things together on this build as I transition off my JKUR to Braptor.
I have the Genesis...
I really like your air setup and building my own. I've got my dual ARB mounted under the back where your battery setup is.
In the front position you mounted your air chucks, have you had any issues with rubbing? Fully turned over it looks like the front could get that close but since the...
Ok, so you did do the drill method like in my first post. That makes me feel a little better.
I have the trailrax w/ pax on and I've been investigating the C pillar at the bottom. If you look right at that location there is a seal that if you open it up there goes in between the body and right...
That looks great, what way did you bring that in from the outside? I see you have the positive wire heatshrunk so are you bringing in more from the outside? One for the ground and then another for the positive?
What did you end up doing and can you send pictures. I'm in the process of doing the same things. I have the same roof rack and was thinking of running the two 10 gauge wires through the A piler but would need a 3/8 hole. I tested the hole size on a sister piece of metal.
Wouldn't be able to...
I'm installing a lightbar in my Braptor and planning to use the drill method but not use the factory wire, I'm going to run my own wires.
I would like to see if I can clean up the threads with thread die and then have this be an external ground point. My rooftop rack will cover the accessory...
So as I learned more about what CHCM is and really control the swaybar disconnect, I started to check it's fuse and found that fuse 66 was blown. I replaced it a few days ago and all is right so far. I have all of my GOAT modes back, Steering button, R button, and Exhaust button.
So I don’t see the CHCM chassis control module when I do the basic FORScan read. I have no idea where that module is or how to test it, so I doubt it has a loose connection.
I’ve only used forscan in ACC mode, maybe it only comes up in started mode but I doubt it.
So I have a loose battery cable after changing it out, fixed that but since I've had an issue with the GOAT mode and other features.
I tried to pull the negative terminal off for 20+ minutes but that didn't fix it. I just got forscan and did a read of it to see what DTC and of course it had to...
I would have done the AAL solution but I installed the DV8 box and an Arb twin compressor in it, wired the power up front and the switch to an uplifter. Might only get 2 lithium’s in the other side but not sure.