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That's them. The places that blow apart are where two straight runs couple together like on top of the engine discharge from the driver side turbo and the bigger pipe in front of the engine going to the intercooler (the most difficult SOB to get to). It takes them a couple of months to work...

Yes the T-bolt clamps with springs. I purchased the same style clamps without the spring and I am slowly replacing the repeat offenders.

It's not fun but it's doable. It's easier if you take the tire off unless you have a lift kit. I have a 2" lift and I managed to keep the tire on. The worst part is you have to take the belt off of the a/c compressor and loosen up the bolts to get to one little bolt that holds the turbo oil...

This is true. But they sure are shiny! At least for now.

It's like a two-stroke dirt bike when it comes on the pipe.....IYKYK! Seriously, I can now say I don't need or want anymore power. It's almost scary how fast it is. You can definitely out run the suspension's capability on the road.

Yes sir. I have one more set of data logs to send to Adam and then I'm ready to make or break it!

I've been running the CVF for about the last 30k+ miles with the Whipple IC. I like them except now that I have added the bigger turbos I do have occasional problems with the clamp joints blowing apart at max boost. I would still recommend them.

22 Badlands SAS, 69,900 miles. My first crack was in the upper pass. side corner at 2-weeks old. Along the way I have added a crack in the lower driver corner and 5 or 6 chips in the middle of the pass. side. So far nothing in the line of sight that bothers me. Still on the original glass.

I've been running e85 off and on (mostly on) for the last 10,000+ miles. I have the ZFG tune for e85. I notice 2-3 less miles per gallon than 93 oct when I drive normally. But the power difference is significant when I don't drive normal, like a lot!

Yepper, and a few gray hairs!😁

Well, the problem was my doing and it has 65k miles on it so…

65k. But I don’t think age killed it. I had taken it part of the way off to do the turbo swap and I may not have gotten it reinstalled correctly. It failed about 40 miles after the swap.

Thanks! It’s not in one piece anymore. Pretty major oil leak. Kinda scary that this and the oil cooler sit just a few inches from and in the direct path of the serpentine belt. I really appreciate your help!

I replaced the oil cooler and that fixed ,the coolant leak and slowed down the oil leak. it appears that whatever the cylindrical sensor to the left of the crank pulley is is where the oil is leaking from. Anyone know what this thing is? thanks in advance.

So, I put oil in it and it appears the oil cooler got slapped by the belt hard enough to compromise its integrity. It sits directly above the serpentine belt. New cooler is on order. Thanks for your input.

No oil on the stick. I was just cruising around 70 mph when it happened. No loss of power. Are there oil cooler hoses I can’t see from underneath?

22 Badlands SAS 2.7 on the way home today the low oil pressure light came on. The serpentine belt is hanging in pieces and oil is everywhere. I dropped the front skid plate and other than belt pieces everywhere I can’t find anything wrong with it. All the hoses appear intact. Any ideas please?

Your comments on the oil check valve just made my day! I couldn’t figure out where it went. The Full Race instructions were misleading. Thank you greatly for this post.

I can say that the 4L 3-2 shift issue is still an issue even with the tune. Scared the crap outta me the first time it happened.

I've run the ZFG e85 tune for the last 10-12k miles. I can't say enough good things about the way it changed the performance and drivability of my Bronco. Yes, I have most of the mods you can do for performance, but I won't go back. BTW, If e85 isn't available I switch to the 93oct program...