Search results

Finally got 'er going.

Been working on adding a FT-857d to mine. Still not positive on how or where I'm going to mount the faceplate, but I'll get there. I also need to clean up and paint my rear antenna mount. I added 1.5x4 LEDs to the tire mount to make up for removing the 3rd brake light.

This is how I did my 2m/70 antenna. I needed to remove some plastic underneath for the bottom flange of the mount, but it was easy.

For those who've had custom installs done, have they inset the sub magnet/basket into the tailgate, or are they just building the box up off the surface of the door's interior panel? Also, does anyone know of a source of pics showing the internal structure of the tailgate? I'm having trouble...

I accidentally plugged the wrong load into the #6 fuse (I was tired), so those are reversed. Oops! That's what I get for using red wires on both circuits. It's still a work in process. You can see the uninstalled switch wires on the right side of the box - those need to go to relay...

Read the first part of the thread. I wasn't given the option. I'm also very direct in stating that one should order them if they can.

I've been busy with other projects lately, but finally got back to working on this one last night. Wires are all ran through the firewall or under the cowl. I'm using the upfitter white/orange wire to pull the switched power signal from the rear utility outlet to under the dash, then it...

Thanks!

I never got the chance to ask they not install the factory plate bracket, so I knew I'd have a couple holes in my grill valance. What surprised me was that it's just plastic like the rear lower corners under the tail lights. Score! No rust. :cool: The rivets they used didn't expand very...

First: I am a cheap bastard. I know this, and accept it as a factor which often appears in my world view. 🤣 Order the bloody switches! My Bronco was not ordered. Now I suffer the consequences. But, Hey! I get a crappy sunglasses holder as a sorry ass consolation to the trouble exerted to...

I tapped the rear crossmember light and removed the whole panel as I ran wires to each side from there. The lights always come on with any door. I took the light housing out of the trim piece after lowering and disconnecting the harness, as the spring clips holding that sucker are strong...

These tabs are all that hold the guts in.

The problem is sunlight becomes an issue. Opening the light is cake.

Sorry for the delayed reply, I didn't get this alert for some reason. You tap into the Yellow +12v that feeds the dome light's push-button switch to power the relay. You can do this with Scotch taps, but I prefer to solder. Then you need to back-feed 12v to the relay switched side to power...

If you can point me to the dome light fuse, I'll send you a crisp $50 bill. I spent 2 hours looking for it yesterday. 🤦🏻‍♂️ 🤣🤣🤣 As I was soldering my extensions I accidentally shorted to ground through the soldering iron. Lights went out with the spark, and no fuses were blown. Two resets...

Here's the schematic.

Not much to it. Just used the constant 12v (yellow wire) to feed power to the relay, then jumpered that wire to the relay's input, then hooked the additional LEDs power wire to the other side of the switched side, grounded the relay and additional LEDs to the black wire, glued the light sensor...

How so? It's a relay triggered by illuminating the dome lights. Science, bitches! 🤣

I need to dial down the sensitivity a bit, but she's 100% functional now. 😎 Video of function

What's holding that panel in place? Is it just clipped in or does it need to come out after the whole upper windshield cover comes out?