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The shaft that goes into the spider gear is too long. This end could be modified to work. This pic was everywhere in the media release. 🤦🏻‍♂️ M210, FAD, and anti-swaybar disco. So it's been done at least once. 😆

My old 40M mount:

You'd just need to change the ratio via Forscan and be done.

My thinking is the opposite - how much heat does the solenoid generate given that it's already in a 220° oil bath? I'm looking at pre-built timer/relays on Amazon to replicate the Ford circuitry. I'm thinking we just need a 60 second delay and then add a resistor in series with a diode to keep...

To follow up on the variable voltage question: Ford drops the voltage after a minute to reduce heat in the solenoid after the locker has engaged. Given that diff oil is usually 220° at freeway speeds, I really question the logic here, but what do I know... 😁

Looks like the common solenoid saver circuits drop voltage, so that's probably the ideal way to go. Many thanks for your quick and insightful reply. I'm one of the guys doing our own Sasquatch conversions and am at the point of wiring up the lockers.

I can see it both ways - drop the voltage via a resistor in-line, or drop the current via a load in parallel. I guess the real question is just how much voltage is needed to keep the spring compressed after the locker is engaged?

I'm a little confused here, so maybe you can help clarify something. We know from Ohm's law, a circuit will only draw the needed current relative to the load and it's resistance. By saying the ECU sends 5A and then reduces that to 2A after a given interval, does that mean the controller...

Ford maintains they use a PWM signal, while Eaton's own harness is literally nothing but a mini rocker, a relay, and a fuse holder for 12v off the battery. 🤷🏻‍♂️ I haven't found anything suggesting PWM was needed on the Jeeps running d44 Advancetrak's. So is Ford doing it to be difficult -...

I'll have to see how warm this gets being next to the exhaust. It might need some header wrap or maybe just heavy foil. Certainly not ideal for serious rock crawling, but it gets 4wd working again, and that was my primary objective until a proper FAD delete can be done. A couple zip ties...

As previously mentioned, I made a bracket to hang the gutted FAD to as a temp fix. Started with the factory crash bar and cut it so it would fit reversed into the frame pocket without protruding into the wheel well. Then cut a dual-purpose notch out of the (new) inner end so it will clear the...

I tried a bunch of code from Dgorsett's AB data and couldn't make mine happy. I'm beginning to think it's something deeper than what Forscan sees. As such, I gutted the inner axle shaft out of the FAD housing and will be bolting it to a stub stuck in the inner side of the RR crash bar pocket...

Care to share your VIN in PM? Any chance you have mid too? 😁

The CVs are larger on the m210 axles. The drive shaft is likely upgraded in strength as well, but I didn't check when I had them both out.

If you have a FAD, the ECU needs to be reprogrammed to not expect it to interact. If your m190 lacks FAD - you suck! 🤣 Because it's a direct swap.

You have a BB with no FAD and standard 4wd?

The CYA has to have something to do with their EPA quotas. By going up to 35's I took a 20mpg truck down to not quite 17. They even say removing the doors is for off-road only. We all know that's a joke given the market segment.

Yep, it's definitely the way to go right out of the box. If I could order a new bronco and expect to actually get it in a few months - I wouldn't be doing this. 🙄

Well, the FAD off the m190 Does NOT fit the m210... At least not without cutting the intermediate shaft down about an inch and resplining the outboard end. The shafts are 29 spline. CV axles will interchange. The housings even match up. But the innards are a no-go.

What's the M3 on the BB?