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The ballast on these fits internal without any issues. Just 2 wires coming out.

Just an update at 23,500mi Engine blew. Just kidding! 🤣 Still leak free and hasn't had any issues.

Cutting the crash bar mounts is not a scary experience. The JKS kit really cleans up that space behind the bumper. I'm only running 35's and needed the clearance for my King reservoirs. The DV8 skid plate comes out too far for the King mounting brackets, and they sit really low in harm's...

After seeing the fine print - it turns out these lights are only 40w and 10,000 lumens each. That definitely explains the 18ga leads a bit better. 🙄 They still blow the socks off everything else, so I'm not too mad about it. 😁 We had freezing drizzle & fog this morning, so this video was done...

The bulbs themselves have fans on them. I wasn't going for retro, I was remembering back when I thought my 100w halogens were badass. 🤣 My Hella's are metal housings with glass lenses, and 9" in diameter. Here's a shot of the wiring harnesses: The connectors are quite stiff and end up...

I never even planned on posting this thread, so I didn't take very many pics of the various stages. 2 of my DV8 Pro's (the four 3x3's in the bumper) will be getting gelled to yellow and put on another switch for fogs. These aren't going to get too much highway time, but we do run back roads...

I'm a middle aged gen-X'er who ran 6" KC HiLights on my '89 Wrangler's front bumper back in the '90s. I thought they were awesome with 100w of not DOT legal power. 😎 And given the weak-sauce of even the best halogens at the time, they sure helped the pathetic headlights a bunch... FF 25 years...

Looking on Ford parts, there's at least 3 maybe 4 versions of the case depending on auto, FAD, manual, and PT no FAD.

Had some bad bulbs in my original order and just got their replacements. The auto-iris on the camera doesn't do any of these justice. My driving lights are blinding. The new Hella's with 40w 10,000 lumen LEDs are wicked.

The device is like a flash drive with an options menu. The codes come from Ford Performance. I'm guessing FP would email us when there's updates, but maybe not?

I forgot to look at the version before hitting update, but it did go through the full update procedure on my ProCal 4. Device version is 2.118 Says I have 2000 flags whatever that means. Performance Cal is MB3A-FPB23A-ALK

There was at least one update as the FAD removal was added after the initial release of the tune. There were also a couple bugs they've dealt with. I'm not sure if those were an update or case by case fixes via FP. I read a lot of posts on the ProCal 4 before caving in. I need to fire up...

It's perfectly happy on 87 octane. Even the wife noticed it was woken up the first time she drove it on the new mapping.

I was reluctant to get this as it irked me to need to spend another $750 to just get my ECU to play happy with the m210 diff swap, but having done it I'm happy with the outcome even on 87 octane.

Got the ProCal 4 today and it asks if you upgraded the FDU when downloading your tune. After installing the tune and disconnecting the FAD there were no CELs, but the 4wd still didn't work until relearning the AWD - which is a function directly via the ProCal 4. All is well!

Just a follow up on this thread: My emails with Ford Techline have gone unanswered for months, and having the FAD hanging under the truck has proven problematic now that we're in the snowy season (I'm sure it's full of water and icing up). I broke down and ordered the Ford tuner, which should...

Finished up my light bar and discovered the electrical connectors interfere with the bumper. Oh well... Looks like I'll need to make spacers if I can't get the lights aligned (it's 8°F outside so no aligning now). These aren't "normal" 9" Hella's btw. The housings were extended to fit...

Is there any way to see what codes it's changing for the FAD delete?

Were I to do it again, I'd likely change up a couple circuits.

No, that switch engages the relay to power my ham radio when the truck is off. It's automatically on when the power is on. I am going to make a little guard to cover the side of the switches, but so far it hasn't shown to be an issue. An arm/disarm switch isn't a terrible idea though.