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I guess a marine speaker wouldn’t hurt as long as the specs are suitable. The factory speakers are cheap paper, so most any aftermarket speakers will be an improvement as far as weather resistance.

Yep. That’s what I used. There are 4 wires that come off the harness. And those splice into the 4 wires on the Kicker 500.1 harness after you cut off the RCA tips. It would be just as easy to use the 4 wires that feed the factory sub and splice those into the kicker harness. I bought the plug n...

I used the Plug n Play harness. It was a tad expensive ($100 shipped) and probably mostly unnecessary, but it prevented me from having to cut/splice any of the factory wiring...

Yeah, I didn’t want to modify the enclosure. It was super easy to trim the outer plastic on the kicker sub to get the needed clearance. I used the kicker 500.1 to power the sub.

Yes. I used the regular Ford Metra adapters. I didn’t measure the depth, but the Hertz 165L weren’t a super tight squeeze depth wise. There’s probably a little bit of extra wiggle room.

I finished installing the sub today. The Bronco is put back together and the audio project is complete. The sub was a lot of work to install, especially with all of the sound deadening, but I’m glad I did all of it. The kicker sub in the oem enclosure sounds good and provides real bass that was...

The title of this thread might be a bit misleading 🤣

ics of the rear of factory speakers. Kick Panel 6.5” B&O 4” (dash corners) Stock 4” (rear pods and center)

Cheers, thanks. I recommend checking out the following thread which has a ton of great info on upgrading the B&O system. This was the thread that inspired me. https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sound-system-complete-upgrade-done-%E2%9C%85.41031/

Here are pictures of the uninstalled factory B&O sub. The magnet is tiny and extremely weak. The magnet is not even strong enough for a small screw to stick to it.

I went to install the Audison APS8D sub today. It does not fit in the B&O enclosure. The sub would not seat in the opening due to the raised sections surrounding the opening on the enclosure. The sub is not easily modifiable. The rubber speaker surround material on the Audison sub stretches out...

The bass response from the 6.5” is pretty good and much improved from stock. The baffles I used are open in the back. I’m not sure what difference they make, but I’m happy with the bass response compared to what it was before the swap.

The B&O amp doesn’t produce a ton of power. I chose the the Hertz 100.3 4” speakers because they seemed to have lower power handling and higher sensitivity compared to other aftermarket 4” coaxial speakers. The 165L mid bass speakers do surprisingly well off of the B&O amp. I was also...

No issues mounting these 6.5” speakers in the kick panel. I used the Metra 82-5605 plates. I did trim the inner ring on the factory grill for additional clearance to be safe. I chose the Hertz 165L because I was looking for a mid-bass speaker as opposed to a midrange. The 4” dash speakers cover...

My subwoofer rattled from day 1, but lately it had gotten worse. I finally had a chance to open the rear panel to see what was rattling around in there. This video provides a nice walkthrough on disassembling the rear trim panels. What I found was that there was a bracket above the...

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I finished upgrading all of the speakers, except the subwoofer, in my B&O system. I used Hertz 100.3 4” coaxials in the dash corners and rear pods. I used Hertz 165L 6.5” midbass in the kick panels and a PRV 4” midrange for the center. I got harness adapters for all 7 speakers from eBay seller...

After a couple days, I tinkered a bit more. The speaker 4 output settings change the sound of the subwoofer. I changed back to OEM setting and it definitely has more sound going to the sub.

Let me know how it works out

This is unfortunate news. Shrockworks has always been my go-to option for rock sliders. They were one of, if not the earliest to offer frame mounted sliders for the B6G.