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@Hothead Headliners - are you going to make a 2dr option for the Heritage and Heritage Limited that have the "gunner's hatch" over the rear passengers heads ?

Those are some expensive "spares" to order and keep around :wink:

Yes I have the bag - and its HUGE. Its a royal pain in the ass to put it in the back, especially if you already have the front top parels off and in their bag. If you also have the gunner's turret out, you can barely get all 3 in the back on the 2dr. I have resorted to using a beach towel and...

Thank you !

Here is an example of a Peak Blue in Sayre, PA for sale that you can see the Mod Top windows are no longer removeable. You may need to zoom in, but they are gone for sure.

Anyone have the glass part numbers for 2dr Mod-Top glass panels ? I've looked at the Ford OEM parts website and can't seem to find it ?

If you have the bass knob, make sure it’s dialed down to zero after you set your amplifier. Start to play a song on your head unit - maybe put the volume on 12ish. Then you can slowly start to add bass. Not sure if @RagnarKon has this in his video, so apologies if it’s redundant. His videos have...

@smonroe11 - this all makes sense now. Your factory amp is still running your sub from the sound of it. Your going to wire that Kicker Sub in parallel Then you should absolutely use the bass knob (maybe you already have it) I would set your amp to something like this picture here - (my bass...

@smonroe11 - can you post a link to the thread you are referencing ? Yes the kit you got is plugnplay, however, the last part is connecting that Kicker Key 500 to your subwoofer. You would not be using the factory wires in the sub box to connect to your new kicker - you would be running new...

@smonroe11 - @RagnarKon - you got it ! You need to still wire the Kicker Key 500 to whatever subwoofer you dropped into the factory B&O subwoofer box. My next question to @smonroe11 is how do you have the Kicker Key 500 wired to the subwoofer ? Do you have pics for that ? The PlugnPlay harness...

@smonroe11 - difficult to understand how the sub still plays if you disconnect the high level inputs - That kit should plug into the B&O amp with the T-Connector and bypass the B&O amp - the other end of that harness should then connect to your Kicker Key 500 to give it clean signal that comes...

Very interesting idea - it seems as though the B&O DSP is configured to use the center channel speaker as more of a midrange and not trying to drive highs/treble from it. Can you offer an opinion on how adding that factory coax speaker sounds versus the factory center ? Do you notice more highs...

Yes - the Mille line is a different beast, and I dont have first hand experience with them.

Try the swap without doing the center and see what you think first IMHO.

@YellaHEL940 - not sure why they said 4" dont fit in the dash as that is exactly what the speakers are. The 4's drop right in. Honestly, I feel that swapping out the 2 front corners is so easy and beneficial that its crazy not to try it. Grab the Hertz or Infinity's and I think you will be...

I am not so sure I would go with that set-up. Please keep in mind, the assumption is that you are keeping your factory B&O amp with the DSP that is configured to run the woofer in the kickpanel and coaxials in the dashboard. I would imagine you are going to lose some sound staging by dropping...

Glad to hear it helped you out. 👍

@hilmerdm - did you go with the standard PRV or did you try out their newer Neodymium type ? PRV NeoDymium

Check out the new Gearshade subwoofer for the B&O system - https://www.gearshade.com/product/bronco-subwoofer-square/ Incredible sound from the L7T8 square sub. It’s a 2 ohm sub and if you use the Kicker Key 500 with a bass knob, it’s phenomenal. Grab a harness and amp combo from Joe at...

I wouldn’t add any bass blockers - the B&O amp is already crossed over at the right frequencies.