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So… same price for stock Godzilla engine and megazilla w/race head this build has? That’s the cheapest 300hp upgrade you’ll find, if true. Or, seen differently, maybe the worst upcharge for 300 less ponies.

Did they toss out any numbers on just the stock 7.3 swap? Not sure how much of a draw there’d be for it since performance to the 3.0 would be similar. However you would get a naturally aspirated V8 with tons of upside mod potential I guess.

Baja trip sounds like the cure for you, although making sure its 100% solid will be in order since you’ll definitely be committed down there. I look forward to hear about how that 7.3 crawls. In theory, the low end torque should be perfect, but it’s all theory till proven. Conversely I also...

Sooo…. You driving it yet? Whats left to do? Think I’m most interested in if you're gonna dyno it or not (please!) and what it comes back at. Edit: disregard my questions as I read your update. Implies you’re gonna dyno it. Any eta on how soon you’ll take it home?

Any updates on it Eric? I mean, we’ve given you plenty of time…. 🤣

👍. I’m gonna stay on you though for the zip-in back window.

I’m one of those who’s requested it. I like the mesh but prefer the inside dry in a surprise rainstorm. That and if you off-road with top off a lot, having an option to roll windows up and keep dust out would be nice. If and when I want to go full sun, Mikes designs make that fast and easy. Best...

Nice! And a good look I will say. For whatever reason, that doesn’t look stock height (guessing it’s lifted). As an early order, I’ve always been satisfied with the flare contrast against white. But now as I see more and more new ones on the road, will say painted flares are growing on me.

Interesting. Leave it to Ford not to capitalize on economies of scale but I’m sure they had their “reasons”. But obviously guys love the design. Factory 37’s would’ve been cool on a truck in that segment though.

Naive question, but isn’t the width/stance on the RR and BR the same? I haven’t really checked out the RR specs but I’d figured as much mostly since they’re made in same factory and would make sense for Ford to use same parts/platform to realize production efficiencies.

Looks completely badass and I’m starting to picture how it’ll look once motor box and hood are back together. Really clean like straight from factory. But not gonna lie, this is what I came to see 🍿:

That happened to me early on but I’d unknowingly hit the button on the steering wheel. On Braptor it’s on inside right of left button cluster and there’s an indicator light on lower mid right side of dash that shows if it’s active or not. Hope that’s it as it’ll be an easy fix. Guess I’ll chime...

No, at least not by selecting the dialed mode. You may be able to add hero switch front locker to it but I’ve not tried. Mostly, I don’t use the modes much at all and just select all features for the conditions/situation I’m in

If by locked in you mean engages 4A, yes, Slippery Mode initiates 4A in mine. And that sucks you’ve already had a snag in your FAD. I still have trust issues from when Ford (and GM) first introduced switch activated 4WD and we’d carry a hammer with so that if/when it wouldn’t engage or release...

Right. But theoretically 4A would have to engage that solenoid also since without it, it couldn’t just engage at speed once sensors picked up on wheel slippage, yes? You guys might see where I’m gong with this but my suspicion 4A may play a part in early wear is b/c it keeps the front diff...

Okay. That diagram is a huge help!! So, two questions: 1) am I right that by disengaging one sideaxle of the diff only would have the engaged axle side and hub free spin inside the diff, but would not spin the diff itself or the driveshaft going back to the xfer? (Say, in 2H) 2)does...

Ya, not saying I’m ready to die on this hill, but this right here is the root of my theory 4A may have something to do with early front diff wear and issues. One example of this might be to pair this with Flips point about not realizing you’re low on fluid and voila, your front diff toasts...

Ya, not saying I have a 100% grasp on how 4A is designed in these, but unless there’s clutches in the front diff or somehow at the individual R&L hubs (or there’s such thing as a high speed actuator solenoid) that front axle and hubs are engaged and spinning while in 4A, right? Maybe it’s...

Picturing them just standing casually behind you as you make them look completely incompetent… 😆

Good question and thinking about it, there might be (maybe?) a life hack here to get it working for free. I mean, if clearance lights work, that should mean ground wire to trailer works also (?). So you’re only then needing your green and yellow trailer wires to work to get brakes and signals...