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Yeah, color me not a fan of K&N oil type air filters. The increased flow comes at a cost--decreased filtering and you are taking a chance on the filter oil making its way into MAF/MAP sensors and ruining them. The mess of cleaning them is not worth it as well. Until the advent and widespread...

I stopped doing remote starts and allowing it to warm up to see how much that was contributing to the dilution. If the levels are still high in the next sample, then I may have a leaking injector. With that said, all the more reason to run a thicker viscosity xW-30 oil. At 5% dilution...

Not sure but as I understand, they are almost identical from that aspect aside from the dipstick levels. @Ducati1098 - can you confirm?

Both Mishimoto and PPE make aluminum pans for the 10R60/10R80. I did a comparison here: https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/ppe-mishimoto-transmission-pan-comparison.86774/ I installed the full RCI aluminum skid plate system on mine to double down on protection since the engine oil pan on...

Do some research on the I6 reliability. While just internet postings, there are a number of Stellantis mechanics on the Wrangler forum who say it is a trainwreck in the Wagoneer. I had high hopes they were going to dump the POS 3.6L in the Wrangler in favor of the I6, but bought a Wildtrak...

Only 1 reason--CAFE. Ford needs to improve MPG on the whole fleet, just like all OEMs do so they reduce viscosity. Increased MPG does not equal longer equipment life. Dana has no need to worry about CAFE so they spec the viscosity that provides the most protection.

If you are heavy off-roader (you use your 4x4 a lot), I would use 75W-140, otherwise 75W-90 will be fine.

I would have 6-7 QTs on hand.

Yes; different load ranges-- "C" versus "D"; they are two different tires per size.

I think as long as you are not rock crawling or subjecting the Bronco to anything that could fly up and hit the pan really hard you are good without skids. I doubled down and installed RCI aluminum skids on mine because the engine oil pan is also plastic. I had a heavily modified Wrangler that...

In a way it makes sense...you can only "crush" the plastic so much before it cracks and I guess that amount of weight is not there.

Well...I would not want to put the weight of the transmission on the studs that are on a plastic pan. I get that is likely not the only attachment point, but still. Which Bronco model has a heat shield attached to the studs? I seen it on the F-150, but my heat shield attaches via plastic...

The rear studs hit the pan before the flange on my deep pan. Others have noted it not being an issue. On the Bronco, the studs serve no purpose and having the switch sockets and torque values during the torque sequence is a PITA (thanks Ford). My pan leaked because the studs were not against...

Correct; but given your lift, the top plug is likely fine.

OEM Gasket = KB3Z 4036 A You should fill until it comes out of the bottom plug unless you have lifted your Bronco past stock, then use to top plug due to rotation of the axle.

It's 75W-85 (which is even more bastardized). No, it could, maybe, possibly, theoretically, hopefully, potentially provide 0.000000000001% better MPG. Given the millions on the table for CAFE credits, all OEMs work overtime to try and achieve them, despite the potential reduction in operating life.

If you are not dragging the axle over rocks, you can use the FP bolts and the OEM gasket and then change them out one at a time when you have the 25MM.

It is not. The OEM is rubber with steel reinforcements and resuable. The FP is fiber composite and is a one time use.

OEM Ford gasket since it is the only one commercially available. The tape goes on the drain and fill plugs.

It could be that I should have wiggled the pan a bit but as the studs serve no purpose, it was easier to just buy more bolts and be done with it. It also eliminated the issue you describe with having to continuously switch sockets.