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It does when you add ethanol to the mix.

E0 87 will have less knock protection than e10 87. Absolutely. Same reason e20 blended 87 will be better/higher octane than e10 87.

Try not to hurt yourself.

Yes this is correct. Except this is not a flex fuel vehicle and not changing its own stoich on the fly. The fuel trims will compensate but why do that? You’re running e0 for nothing. The fuel trims are going to be taking away fuel all the time then compensating. And you’re losing the knock...

Wrong. The stoich is set to be 14.08 by the stock calibration. That e10 which is how it’s going to fuel. Then when the wide bands see it’s off they are going to compensate by pulling fuel. You’ll always be trying to force a rich condition which will need to be corrected in fuel trims. lol.

not at all. Your stock calibration is not setup to run e free. You will be fighting a lean condition 24/7 by running e0 pump. You need to stop that shit and quit reading the internet.

That is probably true for 99% of internet idiots. But unfortunately for you I’m in that 1%. I’ve been tuning high performance cars for about 5 years including the gen 3 coyotes. Ford does very similar fuel and spark management across basically all their platforms. I’ve both seen and logged...

I cracked all mine loose with a 1/2 ratchet and t45 socket. Then backed them all out with a 3/8 impact driver and that same t45 socket. Easy as pie and no issues breaking or stripping anything. Some people just have ham hands. lol

So much misinformation here its silly. Well first and foremost, your bronco has wideband 02 sensors and will account for any blend of ethanol above or below what its been calibrated for which is 14:08 e10 pump gas. The bronco along with most other vehicles that use wideband 02s, have the...

I wanted a wrangler ruby fighter and the badlands sas is it. All the goodies from the factory. I got the 360 cam and added sport mode and painted my beauty rings black. So I got all I wanted in one rig. Sas is a must if anything for resale.

Not fun. They all faught me every single one. All needed to be manually broken loose with a 1/2” ratchet. Then I was able to finish removing them with my 3/8 24v impact driver. Then back on with the impact driver and tq’d them all to 48ft/lbs. in a star pattern. Lots of work. But worth it...

That will absolutely buff out. With 100 grit sandpaper. lol.

I would have went that route, but even bringing them in all my local coaters wanted $300++. And honestly the three closest to me had HORRIBLE google reviews. Lots of 5 star generic reviews, and then 1 star paragraph reviews. I figured for the $30 or so it would take to try, it was worth it vs...

Man what a pain though. Getting all the bolts out with every single one being locktite’d. I had to break every one loose with a ratchet and a T45 torx and then I could buzz them off with my impact driver. Used Raptor1k wheel paint from auto zone. Also the blend 3m scuff pad. That made quick...

I've flashed a few cops with mine here and there but never got pulled for it. My mustang had that too and I was sure I was going to get stopped for it. Never did.

You might think thats the case but in reality it was probably low voltage while you were doing the updates. These along with many other Ford models go nuts when voltage drops a few v under 12. ANYTIME you do anything with FRDS or FORscan or even tune flashes with HP Tuners, you must be on a...

We’ll see about that. lol. And responding to you takes zero energy and about 10 seconds.

360 comes on both with front camera button and rear camera when in reverse. You aren’t able to twist this any. Why would you need to put the bronco into reverse to activate the front camera? Again. Reading - not so hard. And all those giving the dealer shit, well in this case y’all were...

He said specifically when putting it in reverse. What camera is activated when putting in reverse vs hitting the camera button?

He didn’t say front camera at all. But he did say without reverse.