If I were to do this again I would make two small changes.
1. Run the puddle ground wire out of the mirror to the engine bay and ground it to a bolt. This way you don’t need to cut/solder wires in the mirror.
2. Put in a connector for the power in the engine bay so if you ever have to remove...
So unless you have high/lux you are not going to have the wires. You'll need to run the wire yourself to the door modules. Here is a pic of the passenger C140x connector.
I have a BD with 4.46 gears and also run SAS tires and suspension. Truck drives great and I have no issues with power. Averaging 20mpg.
For reference my previous fun car was a 2004 terminator running 20psi on E85 making close to 700whp.
Can you log IAT2? This is usually downstream air temp post compression and intercooler. The ecu will usually use this to pull timing/boost. I'm sure the ecu is probably pulling timing and boost due to increased temps.
Ironically the intake air temps don't have as much effect on IAT2 as you...
Interesting. Maybe that's why mine has stayed on. I checked my HVAC settings vs my AsBuilt and they are the same. I know I was playing around with this before summer. Maybe I didn't actually get it working.
I made a Forscan change and my recirc stays on indefinitely when I turn it on. I'll have to dig up the change I made. Stay tuned...
Edit: Maybe Mine stays on Recirc due to outside temp? I looked through all my HVAC settings and they are identical to my AsBuilt. Could be my mistake, i'll know...
FWIW, just get the kicker key 200.4 and be done. I originally just put aftermarket 4/6.5" speakers in and played with these forscan changes and tone settings and while better it was just ok. Once I added the 200.4 and setup the DSP, it was night and day. 10x better sounding than just speakers.