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Your skid plate should work fine if you’re going from capable to mod, they are the same.

I don't think it's the frame necessarily, but the mounting studs. They're not super integrated with the frame and have been known to snap off. Even when tightening nuts down on them, you have to use a pretty low torque setting. I wouldn't trust those to carry any kind of load on their own.

I don't disagree with anything you stated. If it were me, I still wouldn't trust that dual 10 AWG extension line for that heavy of a load. I'd want a single 2 AWG at minimum.

Bottle jack. Compact, safe, and doesn't require any specific lift points to work.

If safety is a concern, I hope no one follows any of this lug crimping advice. Sure, the crimp doesn't have to look pretty, but it needs to be somewhat uniform, otherwise that wire is not going to hold in there long term. A vise grip is the wrong tool for this job. It's just going to pancake out...

Doing great so far, done a few cycles and haven’t had any issues. The built in solar charger is awesome. I can go from 0-100% charge in about 7 hours with the 250W panel I’ve been testing it with (outputs close to 210W). In all my testing, with the lid closed, the internal temp hasn’t gotten...

Just XL (not long)

Yep, way too small. Those specs you posted says it has a 120W DC charger. 120W / 12V = 10A. I’d try it with a 15A fuse in there (assuming all the wiring/connections are still sound).

What size fuse came with that harness?

Rokblokz worked fine on mine with the factory tube steps (before I swapped them out for sliders).

Here's a screenshot of my frame's model in Sketchup. I may have adjusted some of the measurements as I was building it, but this should be pretty close.

Dang, that's a big jump. Do you have any yellow-sized butt connectors around? If it were me, I think I'd... Cut off both wires' terminals Strip the smaller gauge wire a normal amount for the butt connector Strip the larger gauge wire enough so it pokes through to the other side of the butt...

Good rule of thumb is to size the DC-DC charger at 25% of your alternator's max rating. At 50A, that's well below the 25% threshold of the 250A alternator that came with the Bronco. The nice thing about the DC-DC charger I'm planning on using (this one) is I'd be able to control the charging...

The DC-DC charger will charge the battery at a much higher rate (up to 50A) than what I'd be able to get out of one of the 12V sockets (10A). With my 100Ah battery, I'd be able to full recharge it in as little as 2 hours of driving time. If aux battery is smaller, you probably wouldn't see as...

As long as the wire you're splicing in is thicker, and not the other way around, you'll be fine.

Nothing says 'classic' like gatekeeping fun and accessibility.

Wouldn't a 12V socket extension cable be easier?

Updating the wiring diagram concept in my original post. This version includes the solar panel(s) and the optional inverter.

It is a nice looking rack for sure, but I think a lot of the added cost comes from the complex bends and welds needed to get the resulting geometry. If you look at most of the other aftermarket racks, they're comprised of bent pieces of aluminum with 8020 crossbars. Not particularly complex to...

I don't have the OEM roof rack, but if I did, I'd probably be more interested in the first option. It'll cost a little more, but it's nice having the flexibility on where the cross bars can be positioned. I'm guessing it'd be difficult to design something to allow an extrusion to be bolted...