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Sure here ya go

The standard headlights don’t have that control module. Or if they do it’s different because there is no metal plate like signature or warthog lights.

Ya they aren’t cheap but well worth the money in my opinion.

I used Memphis mjp6

Any idea if this part number has changed? I tried ordering one online and the dealer got back to me saying MB3Z-6750-B has been replaced by ford with MB3Z 6750 F. Any ideas? @flip

You’re better off just pulling out the whole panel without attempting to remove the grill at all. Then it easily pops out from the inside which makes the reinstall easier.

I think at some point I may try to find the B&O panel and just replace the whole piece so it looks 100% factory.

I kept them wired with the dash speakers. I wanted some more power to the rears so I didn’t do bi amp mode on the kicker. I may change it up some day but like the sound so far.

I used the stock option after I added my modular bumper. Just zip tied it to the grill. I now have a new mount but will hopefully be able to remove it here soon. Heard Illinois might be moving away from the mandatory front plate.

I think the fasteners were breaking at the part that was pushed through the metal. If that pulls out it’s usually f’d.

Gotta push that radio detect button in. Problem solved. You need something small to get it pushed in. Judging by your picture it is not pushed in so it’s still off.

They do not. They are similar to the ford factory rock rails.

Since you have to cut them for the two door you can Make them land wherever you’d like. But they kind of go with the curve of the wheel well.

It’s been a while since I’ve done mine but I ran all harnesses up to the aux switches. High beams all on aux one (blue wires on the harness) and backlights on aux 3 (white wires on harness).

Ill keep looking and let ya know

No problem. With the adapter i used I did have to trim the round ring on the back side of the speaker grill. If yours is shallow mount you might not have to worry about that but just a heads up. Good luck !

I’d probably go for the touring. Doesn’t sound stupid and gives the dual exhaust look I like.

I was thinking about doing this as well. Not having problems yet but figured power from the battery would prevent any issues. Good to know…

Im working on it but no luck so far. My buddy wants a set too haha

12 gauge was recommended by crutchfield and have used it for sub wiring in the past. 12 is only used from the 500.1 to the subwoofer. For high level inputs from front left and right I used 18 gauge.