Yep. I cut a 1" strip of black sandpaper and some double sided tape and stuck a little on the front of the middle divider. But, some molded in ribs would be nice.
I found that if you just pull the end out a bit and warm up the side with a heat gun, you can straighten that out. You can just do it by hand. Don't pull out to far and don't heat up the side too much. I wouldn't be surprised if you could do it with a hair dryer on hot.
I'm glad that you finally got it for MSRP. But, it never should have been a battle. Dealerships are in a tough spot trying to make ends meet when they don't have cars to sell, we all need to understand that. But, they need to understand that things like ADM and "Crain Commitment" makes them...
I understand what everyone says about a signed agreement, etc. etc. BUT, when you place a reservation and then that reservation becomes an order, the darn order is IN YOUR NAME. You can see it when you log into Ford.com. When you place the order, it shows the price. For the dealership to...
I'd put together some documentation. Your signed order with the notations you mention. The order progress page showing it's delivered and then I'd cause them some headaches. I think I'd go to my state attorney general and then call some media outlets to let them know what happened and that you...
No. The flash gives full frequency to the back speakers. The subwoofer is tied into the kick panel speakers so any flash would have no effect on the sub. The sub adds enough nice low frequency addition to the sound system that I don't believe I will flash the back speakers even after I replace...
Unfortunately, my bronco did not come with auxiliary switches. But, fortunately, the sub powers on when audio is present, so it's not really an issue for me.
Follow up. The installer at my shop has a lot of experience, so I decided to let him do it. He told me he tapped the kick panel speakers on both sides. He ran the wiring into the side door pocket so that I can easily disconnect and tuck the wires away. I choose to go with this one because he...
I have concerns about this product. I carefully measured the door pockets on my 2-door for Mabett and found that the pockets on the 2-door are clearly different size than the pockets on the front doors of the 4-door. This description says it works on either. Seriously doubt that.
This particular mod looks pretty rough to me. Not something I would do. But, I do admire the ingenuity to find something that works and I just wanted to post the photo to show that it can be done. BTW, this fellow used a drywall hoist, the engine hoist looks more suited for the job to me.
I'm curious about this. A mount would obviously have to be fabricated to be the proper height and securely hold it while appropriately disturbing the weight. But the hoist could clearly do it and is in a configuration that lends itself to adding on a mount. I guess I was a little surprised at...
As I mentioned in my first post, the ceiling hoist doesn't work for me and these lifters are so darn expensive that I was trying to figure our a way to modify something less expensive. I'll probably end up biting the bullet and going with this.
Looking at hard top lifts. I prefer a free standing lift to pulleys and straps. They are quite pricey. I'm wondering if you could take an engine hoist like this and modify it. Anyone done it or have some thoughts? These are from Harbor Freight and under $300.