Yeah; honestly, they’re really just for sound. You won’t see the benefits of the upgrade until you swap out turbos, and the bigger turbos aren’t out just yet.
The gesi cats are stainless steel and are rated for more HP. The other cats are ceramic. I called SPD and they were awesome. They didn’t try to upsell me on the gesi cats. They were brutally honest and advised the ceramic cats would be more than enough. I ended up getting the gesi cats because I...
Hi there,
Apologies if there is already a thread for this, but was wondering if anybody knew the torque specs for the front/rear suspension and sway bar disconnect assembly for the braptor?
Removed my shocks for revalue, spring swap, and front top hat replacement and I want to put it back...
Sorry if this isn’t the appropriate section for this, but wanted to make a thread for anybody needing this info for the braptor. Does anybody know the fluids and amount in quarts needed for the drive train:
front differential:
transfer case:
transmission:
and rear differential:
I hope I didn’t...
My biggest comparison is to itself. I don’t understand how the price damn near doubled?
Are you talking about the tuffy one not working on the braptor? That’s weird because I know a couple folks that have the tuffy one that worked on their braptor. You think the accessibility of the pass...
Just spoke with them and the bottom half is all silicone hose. Kind of a bummer if you ask me.
This is the other option all 2.5” mandrel bent:
https://buckleupoffroad.com/products/prw-pwrr01b-pipe-process-west-intercooler-piping-kit-black-compatible-with-factory-intercooler-and-stage-1-process-west
Process West also makes pipes, but you can only get them from buckle up butter cup. I’ll probably end up going with the afe ones. I talked to them about them the other day, but failed to asked if the bottom half of the pipes is all silicone. I’ll call and ask Monday.
From what I remember it wasn’t hard at all, there is a handful of machine screws (6, I believe) that have to be removed. There should be 1 behind the door handle/lock hidden behind a little plastic cover. I used a small 45 degree pick tool from harbor freight to pull it off. As long as you’re...
From 900 to almost double the price. I can’t imagine diabolical selling many of these selling at that price. Hard to justify that price when the competitors product is a fraction of the price.
I am doing the deep/high capacity trans pan too. You’re saying you can’t use the stud bolts with the deep pan? If so, do you happen to have a part number for the pan bolts? I’m assuming it’ll look better too since all the bolts will be the same.
I skimmed through the 6 pages and replacing the tie rod with a full billet piece as opposed to a half rod style is the issue here. I’m going to be doing the 74w rack in a few weeks and will be using a half billet rod making the tie rod the weak point (still). Also, the company I’m working with...
I don’t have a starlink. It’s not something I’d invest in, right now, but hands down, your solution is the best I have seen offered. I watched as you worked from prototype to production. If I ever decide to take the leap, your mount is what I’d want.
That’s the route I’m taking as well. I removed them and am having them powder coated semigloss black as well. I also got black rivets so I don’t have to have the raw aluminum ones.