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Doesn’t the angle of the front half-shafts increase with a lift? Im trying to keep mine as close to OEM as possible, the Badlands already has a “lift” over stock Bronco so it’s hard to find info on what size my lift will actually be over factory. I’m finding differing info from .3” up to 2...

Just ordered these for my Badlands, they will be installed in a couple weeks. Im gonna have them put on the bottom clip, trying to keep the geometry as close to stock as possible. Wondering what kind of lift you got over stock once they settled? Did you get the trackbar relocation bracket...

Far as I know they’re the same. No exhaust difference or anything you can see from the outside. Unless it’s a wildtrak, then you don’t know which engine it has. I prefer it that way, I have a 2.7, but am glad it’s not a “status symbol.”

They've covered certain ones. There was a guy whose tie rod snapped in his driveway, he took pictures and it was covered. If they can tell it happened off road or from other impact then you're on your own. If it happens when it shouldn't have ( which is very unlikely) then document it with...

This forum: Modified Bronco to their own tastes- “eww I hate it, you’re dumb for wasting money” Colored tow hooks and ugly Katskin: “so sweet, truly unique, awesome rig!!” smh my head 🤦‍♂️ With that out of the way, that thing is ugly and a waste of money.

That’s what’s used in the FP package, correct, just minus the Ford labeling?

Updated to add pic.

Am thinking of doing the FP upgrade as well to keep at least a bit of warranty, rather than replacing with the same subpar shock that will likely have the same problem.

I have a tentative service appointment to check out the common leak between the shocks and the reservoirs. Is this likely to be addressed as "normal" or have dealers been warrantying them for a replacement? All four have leaking/staining. The reservoirs haven't fallen off, but the leak/staining...

I’ve gotten the clunk intermittently, and seems like only when not warmed up. Is that how yours started?

Yeah, it’s easily reversible if I need the extra switch down the road, and I’m mostly worried about the battery running out or the opener get wet or otherwise ruined at the most inconvenient time.

Ok that makes sense. The opener is in the cab and the wire you ran is from the opener to the Aux switch wiring under the hood, correct? I initially assumed you left the opener under the hood and was wondering which extra wire was needed. Thank for the response. I think I'm gonna do this too...

Have fun, it's really peaceful and serene this time of year. Remember it's still pretty cold at night once you get to elevation, low to mid 40's around 7500'. Just don't want you to be unprepared. Tread lightly, and leave no trace, please.

Couple question if you don't mind? Does the garage door opener store the frequency needed without a battery, or full time power? It's only receiving power when you hit the switch, correct? Which wire did you have to run into the cabin? The way I'm reading this is that it's hooked up to an Aux...

The "$650-$700" was for parts & labor of switching out the springs, etc? I assume the "assembly at $350" was for install on to the vehicle, as 6112's came pre-assembled, correct? And was that just for the rear, or all 4? Im guessing just rear based off the price. I'm thinking about getting...

Have you considered trading in the kids instead?

Smiles per mile > miles per gallon It’s my daily as well, great for all weather, noisier than a sedan but you get used to it no problem, easy to drive and smooth on the highway, she’ll love it.

You’re better off with the Badlands than the OBX, you have your Mustangs for cruising and now you have an off roader that doesn’t need any upgrades. Welcome to the forum.

Does anybody know what Ford charges for replacement including labor? Ballpark? Im trying to do some napkin math on whether to trade in before this happens.

What does “the log in and stuck on in mud” mean?