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I have been happy with the ASFIR transmission and cross-member skids.

Great thread. I struggled with this decision and ended up going with the 33's. I've been very happy and it has proven plenty capable after 8,400 miles and a half dozen outings. As happy as I've been with the factory set up I'm planning to upsize the next time around to some 285/75r17s. I like...

I have only recently started noticing this and I'm at 8,400 miles. Like you said, I feel it in the pedal as I take off and my auto start/stop is disabled. I'm hoping it's a brake vacuum/ABS quirk and not that the transmission is shifting as soon as I hit the gas. I guess time will tell but for...

I went to Leadville last weekend and heading up I-70 the Bronco did great. Had no problem keeping the speed limit at about 9 psi boost. I would agree with postponing those 6% grades until your engine gets to know itself. I never thought to monitor the trans temp.

I typically see engine oil temps of 200° around town but see readings in the lower 220's heading over the mountains.

I did it myself and if I remember right the graphene ceramic coat was ~$30-$40 on Amazon. If you go for one of the multi-year ceramic coatings they flash really quickly and a DIY'r can get in trouble. Better left to professionals. This product only lasts a year so depending on the warranty the...

Adams graphene treated me well. The most forgiving ceramic coating imo.

BTW

If you think two minutes spent pulling a fill plug is "taking things apart" you deserve every afternoon you spend at the dealership.

I agree with you and I think the design is done intentionally to draw people into the service department.

AutoZone employee: "So do you have the Bronco Sport or just the plain Bronco?"

Long story short the factory fill on my rear differential was 10oz low. Not sure if it was an oversight on the line, QA/QC or dealer PDI. Maybe all three. Long story long. A couple of us went out to Hackett Gulch (CO) last Sunday with a storm rolling in. It's a difficult trail on a good day and...

Try putting some good duct tape over it and peeling it off. Gorilla tape comes to mind. Just pray the gorilla tape adheres to the super glue better than the glue adheres to the dash.

I bought the Polk DB 402s front and rear and some Rockford Fosgate R165-S component speakers for the kick panels. I didn't plan on using the tweeters included with the RF components but wired them up to compare side-by-side and actually liked them better. I didn't wire the Polks up front with...

That sucks OP. Gorilla glass would be good but for now I've lowered my deductable and purchased a professional rock-chip/windshield repair kit. Four months in the score is repair kit 2, deductables 0.

Hopefully it's just the fuse box or loose ground wire.

You may want to try some blue loctite. Not to be confused with red.

I confirmed that it's 3/4". I had some pieces doubled over that might have been 10" but most of it was shorter. I haven't had anything come loose, the ends are all tucked in and it fits snug. The backer rod I had was contractor grade, for concrete joints, and will only compress ~50%. I...

I was having the same issue. My heart stopped everytime it started fluttering as I second guessed my hood closing ability. Fortunately I had some 3/4" backer rod around the house and stuffing it into the gaps (missed by factory foam) seems to have fixed it. I wasn't sure how it would hold up...

Rod vault looks great. I've been holding off until the new tires arrive to ensure enough garage clearance. In the meantime a 9' rod fits down the middle of my 4dr without breaking it down. I think a 9'6" would also fit.