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No. Personally I don't understand why so many people are hung up on cutting a wire and wiring it direct. When I cut the factory plugs off I always leave a little bit of wire on them so if for some reason I would ever want to I could splice them back on. Trust me you won't ever want to put the...

I have the Infinitys as well. The reason these $50 Infinitiys are the best for an otherwise factory system is because they have a super high sensitivity level and low impedance (ohms). They have a sensitivity rating of 92, meaning that they are super efficient and produce more sound with less...

For sure, I have used both. An easier way to see how it would look temporarily might be to just put some black vinyl or electrical tape on them. Sometimes peeling plasti-dip is a pain.

I would think it would be hard to get the sides of them covered. If you were going to go through the trouble of removing them first then I would just paint them.

I installed a $28 one from Amazon for the wife last week. It was intended for a Jeep so I had to make some small modifications. I just cut the plug off and spliced it to the wiring. There is plenty of extra wire if I ever wanted to put the plug and factory light back on. It puts out quite a...

The spacer I made was .500 thick and nylon. I would think it would need to be .250 to sit low enough to clear the trim without trimming the ribs. Although some speakers may not be as tall or have as much excursion either?

Awesome! Even a 5.25 would be an improvement back there.

Yes, I used the two 6.5 feeds into the LInk4 and then two sets of RCA's out. One RCA for the full range feed to the amp and one set for the Sub feed. Even though the amp is five channel it can use 2, 4, or 6 RCA inputs. Doing it this way allows me to use the LInk 4 remote knob to control the...

My friend at the 4WD/Audio shop said this is how they do all the Jeeps. I know they have a different spare tire set up and probably different hinges though.

JL Audio website lists the weight of the CS112LG-TW3 as 30.5 lbs. Since it is on the inside and closer to the hinges I really didn't notice any difference in closing or opening. Maybe once I get the 35"s on there it will be a different story?

Just the speaker grill. And the kick panels were already out anyway. I also already had the lower dash panel down on the driver's side, which really let's you see up in there.

Super easy. I just used a piece of solid strand wire first then pulled the tweeter wire down through with it.

In order to do a decent job you will want to remove the letters to paint them. It's not that difficult, just take you time. If you look up my post from August you will have all the info you need.

I actually did two of the three. My adapter I made was only 1/2 thick vs. the 3/4+ of the OEM speaker and Metra adapter. Then I also cut the ribs on the underside of the grill as a safety precaution because I was worried the woofer might hit them during excursion. The third option is not...

The grill snaps off of the trim panel separately. It has two hook clips on one end and snaps on the other. I would recommend removing it and looking at the placement for yourself. I don't feel like it is centered over the speaker hole in the sheet metal?

My bad, yes you are correct. They do reduce voltage to 13V or less to provide a lower distortion level. Along with channel summing and bass roll of adjustments, and other features depending on which one you purchase.

Awesome! Glad my post helped. Are those the Orical backlight bronco letters on your grill, or is that just a shadow?

Somewhere in this forum there was a CAD picture of the side panels showing the clip locations. I could not find it when I was ready to remove the panel so I just started carefully. If you look at my photo of the amp mounting you can see the white circle clips for location reference. Once you...

Correct. Then once you have it working if you feel that it does not have the power and/or clarity you expected you can add a LOC/DSP. I did it this way in my son's Focus and going from high level inputs to an audio control LC2i was a serious upgrade.

You do not need a LOC. The purpose of the LOC is to improve the voltage of the signal, giving you a more powerful and clear signal to the amp. The factory wiring for the front speakers go to the 6.5's first then jump up to the 4's so there is really only one set of wires to tap into.