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With manual, I find it easier to hold the clutch if I don't want the engine to stop because I know it's going to be a brief pause. In such cases I'm as likely to be on the clutch anyway. If its long enough that I take it out of gear, then I'm okay with it turning off. By the time I get it...

For me, key issue was manual transmission limited to I4. I don't know how to drive an automatic. I towed heavy trailer Boston to Phoenix, up and down the rockies with it. No problem.

Rarer still, 2Dr, Manual, + SAS. I hunted hi and low for one in Cyber and finally opted for non SAS badlands with plan to mount 315’s and add the bump stop. Only to find a listing about a month after I finally pulled trigger.

Naturally aspirated V8 I’d love a bench seat but not going to give up the four gears it would sacrifice for a column shift. That being said, axel gearing that suits 6th with said naturally aspirated V8. Better yet, leave off 6th gear altogether - it’s a bit overkill. I’m not into running thru...

Based on original post I concur with those calling for Black Diamond. OP specifically noted “open differential” and 32”s. Black Diamond meets his spec with only addition of rear lockers. Badlands adds 33’s, front lockers, sway bar disconnect all of which adds cost for something not needed...

I may be biased having grown up in the era of rear wheel drives, hilly country, and rudimentary snow removal in a time when there seemed to be a heck of a lot more snow fall than present… I’d say you may be better off without it, in that all vehicles have four wheel stop which doesn’t work that...

Following. Similar question for dual battery charger. Looking for engine run.

I installed warn bumper using stock harness and sensors. Was very wonky until I re-plugged the wonkiest of the four and the main plug as well. Then back to normal compared to the OEM set up. Also found my ACC relocation would drop out of service and removed 2 louvers in front of it...

Won’t have 6 buttons due to manual Transmission negating turn assist feature.

Well! I've read the owner's manual and there is in fact a start-in-gear feature/ability while in 4-lo. Not quite as intuitive as the old-school ways, but possible. Now, curious how long it will allow without engine firing in this case where fuel pump was dead. Quote from manual: START IN...

While I have done that with my 1G, Definitely NOT a possibility to starter crank the 6G to the curb, at least not without defeating the clutch cut-out switch and even then…it’s not as though the start button is a direct link to the starter relay. Tap it to start and the computer decides how...

The reason I bought a 6G was that I took a contract in a place were A/C is necessary (54 days in a row over 110F last summer) I’ve a daily driving 1st gen that I’ve had since the mid 80’s, for this discussion practically stock - that is manual drum all for corners, 3 spd, stock ignition, 6 turn...

Brought my 21 in for the cold rattle - after removal and then dismantling for synchro replacement, dealer opted to replace as unit - evidence of multiple hot spots on bearings as well as synchros. I bought used but can’t envision what the PO could have done to cause so glad dealer agreed...

Beautiful photo - where taken?

Difficult to say year from this angle alone / modifications that may have been done, but side markers are 70 or later, and stretching a bit what I can see looks to be Dana 30 which are 70 and earlier so going with 70. Coincidentally mine is a 70

Beautiful work and great design. Where did you tap ignition? I was looking for run indication for my charger, given auto-stop at traffic lights vs ignition.

Seems to me rather a stylized situation. Best tire depends on terrain/circumstance. Snow different than sand different than rock different than highway, different than wet. Strictly a toy vehicle different than daily driver. So best tire dependent on user’s application.

My 1970 cluster is barely visible at night, can’t say I look at it much after all these years. If I were to change my 6th gen, would switch the analog Speedo to an analog tach.

VIN is located on the glove box door. Yes, that’s why people will buy total loss, just for the vin and maybe a handful of lenses and bezels. Fairly common in fact - just as you note, allows a vehicle to be built from scratch that only needs to meet codes of the era. Here’s my new body waiting...

Yep - it’s about the VIN. Can’t build from scratch and make it road legal - otherwise would need to comply with current safety and emission standards. So with trusty VIN in hand then becomes a question of - can anything be kept to make it authentic at least in some form of spirit other than...