You spend your days on Facebook griping about tie rod ends and cupholders.
While posts like this latest one from @Bmadda keep me up at night.
We are not the same.
Really appreciate the work you guys have put into this so far and keeping fingers crossed that a workable solution is found soon.
I was one of the few who was able to get the GT350 intake for my Mustang before the price jumped, it's something I've thought about a lot regarding the steering rack. Check this thread daily in hopes that someone cracks the code while the price is still at a low point.
So I pulled the accesory bracket today just to 💯 confirm the bolts are not making any contact near the hinge area. As stated earlier I have put about 8k miles on the Bronco since installing the bracket which includes some Baja and Trail driving. I've given the suspension a workout.
As expected...
'21OBX I think it probably looks a little tighter in this picture than it does in person, but you got me curious as well. I checked it after seeing your post tonight and can't see any damage but tomorrow I'll pull the accesory arm and take a closer look. If someone was concerned it'd probably be...
I'm not sure if the winch made a difference regarding brake dive, as my Bronco came with the Warn winch already installed.
In your situation, just my .02, if you are capable of installing the perch springs I think it'd be worth doing, it isn't a bad stop gap till you can get your coilovers.
Not much poke at all on the Badlands optional wheels sat pretty flush with the fender flares, only mod needed to run them was removal of the front crash bar (the one behind the tire was able to remain). I was not experiencing any rubbing on the UCA, but ended up going with 2 inch spacers so that...
My bracket is one of the earliest versions of it, when I asked Tyson about the HB being backwards he explained to me that they did this so that the logo would read correctly with the spare tire removed as it wouldn't be visible with the rotopax installed. At some point they changed it and here...
So I measured it today and have 3 inches of droop. I think I remember seeing that you had 4.5 inches of droop. I believe the 1.5 inch droop difference between our two rigs is that you are running 1.5 inch top hat spacers. Unfortunately I didn't think to measure droop prior to installing the lift...
That's a good question, and I should be able to check by lifting just one side of the vehicle, correct? I'm off of work on Monday I should be able to check it than.
For starters I have a Badlands non Sasquatch on 35 inch Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/T. I've had the kit on for about a week and have yet to do any offroading with it. I installed the full kit so 2.25 inch in the front and 1.25 inch in the rear.
First thing you notice when driving the vehicle is...
Or even more likely it's just a coverall that may be helpful if Fabtech ever found themselves in a future lawsuit over a part failure due to a improper install.
Looks like the installer only went to ugga ugga when the instructions clearly call for at least 6 uggas. 🙃
But seriously, OP thanks for posting this as it's a great reminder for all of us who installed lifts to be a bit more intentional with re checking everything.
If I were you, for added...
My squeek started as soon as I upgraded to 35 inch tires, so I knew right away that it was from the added weight. Once I added the Hammer Built Spare Tire Support the squeeky tailgate went away. So my suggestion would be to remove your spare and if the squeekyness stops than consider a support...
So fronts are the same which goes back to my thought that it's the rears which are different. I'll get a measurement once I get my rear shocks removed. Probably early tomorrow, unfortunately my single action harbor freight spring compressor is failing me. It's partially user error on my part...