Not my cup of tea. lol awesome write up though!
my ultimate build would be a true long travel kit with Kings or Elka so I could embarrass the Polaris kids lol
I guess I’ll keep patient till I can buy a safe tune with a new FMIC and down pipe/charge pipe recipe. I’m not looking for insanity, just want a non-nerfed 2.3 regulated by bean counters and management who wanted specific HP brackets for marketing purposes.
That’s exactly what I wanted to know. So if spray fails or runs out it will pull boost back to safe levels? I’m not looking to win races or anything, I just live near some awesome dunes and it will need all the help it can get. Would upgrading the IC to a better design help?
Thanks. That still doesn’t answer the question though. I understand what is out there. And I’m not looking for 450hp. I would have bought the 2.7 if I were. I’m looking for something other than FP. But maybe it’s the only option. I just want more flexibility than premium fuel requirement for 30 hp.
I’m an oil and gas Measurment nerd. Does the JB4 work off of feedback and make adjustments based on knock sensors? Or does it just simulate a safe boost level with no feedback from sensors? I really want to take advantage of water injection with lower 86 octane as done correctly, water injection...
I’ve been saving and waiting for them to come out. What is up with the computer in the bronco that makes it such a challenge? I guess I might just have to buy a JB4 and run water injection that way. Oh well.
I’m in oil and gas. It’s exactly this. Because people still drive carbureted vehicles, in colder climates, they have to keep vapor pressure up in the fuel so they can start easily. They do this by using more butane in the winter blend/mix as it has a lower temperature boiling point than higher...