I just use standard 87 octane from wherever it's the best price. There really isn't such a thing as "cheap gas" in CA, even the independent/local stations get the high quality stuff due to the regs here. I've run premium a few times to see if I noticed the extra power, but honestly I didn't.
Hard to say about MPG since I was only about 1000 miles in when I changed the tires, but I suspect it did cost me a bit having larger/heaver tires on there.
I also didn't bother to re-calibrate the speedo since the diameter is actually only a few percent bigger than stock. I figured it was...
No lift or rubbing at all, and lots of folks here have put the same size on stock rims with good luck. Crash bars can stay and no spacers needed either. I've driven almost 20k miles on mine. Def a more classic look without any poke past the fender flares.
I think the (almost) 33" size is...
I guess I'm the only one with a factory MIC 1.0 top that after almost two years is still leak-free, looks good, showing no lamination issues, etc.?
But hey, people that want to replace their soft-top need options and here is a fairly nice one. As long as you don't mind that giant panel to remove.
I go by the factory recommendations and run full synthetic in all vehicles. Honestly, oil-related breakdowns are pretty rare for engines with under 150-200k miles, it's usually something else that does them in before that.
I haven't used Eco mode for a long time, but found it to be no benefit on long highway drives. In the city, it's just too sluggish for my liking so I'd rather have the extra pep than any small efficiency benefit.
I installed the Curt plug harness over the weekend - took a couple hours but relatively painless.
Those plastic screw/clip things holding the trim panels on next to the lights are pretty lame though - I had to drill two of them out. Anyone have a PN for these or have an Amazon link to replace...
There is no up/down adjustment but you can adjust fore/aft a bit. Try loosening the bolts and pushing the plate forward as far as it will go. You can shim the plate down a bit too with flat fender washers.
Had the Bestop access mesh bimini on my 4dr for a while until I got my Sunrider. Overall, not bad but the way it connects at the header leads to a lot of flapping and a weird gap. I'll probably try and sell it at some point soon.
My $.02 on Toyota paint: it is ass - maybe the worst in the industry. Like most people said, in the last few years every manufacturer has had issues with QC. This is why I kept my build simple, and have had no issues after 18K miles and almost two years.
This was a big factor in why I went back to an iPhone. Carplay has it's bugs too, but generally it's way more stable and less laggy than AA. In fact, the lag with Google maps navigation was so bad I often missed directions in busy downtown areas and such. Apple Maps on carplay is much better...
This is on my "to do" list for my Sunrider as well. I have a roll of 1/8 x 1" strip that I used for the header seal that I plan to wrap around the cross-brace like you did. It flaps and makes a weird snapping/popping noise if it's closed with the windows open, and I'm glad this worked for you...
Depending on what you are doing - the stock wheels could be fine. I have 33" AT's on mine and have done some easy-moderate trails with no issues. The stock Dueller's are garbage. Great for street but not going to do the job off-road other than flat dirt hardpack. I don't think beadlocks are...